While you could bleed the clutch MC separately, you'd probably introduce downstream air in the system when you reconnected the slave line.

Typically, you use a pressure bleeder on the Brake MC and make sure the fluid level stays high. Let lots of fluid go through, tap the Clutch MC, tap the slave cylinder - and you'll see more bubbles. For some assurance, you can manually bleed the system with the clutch pedal, but be careful not to depress too far, and make sure you keep the pedal down before tightening the bleeder.

exact same story with my 964 last fall. It was the Slave.

The cup that recieves the rod from the slave gets dry. I would moly lube that. The Power Bleeder makes bleeding both the master and slave sooo easy.

You could try the lube and bleed before buying parts.

Dang Wes you just made me realize that i did not lube that cup that the rod pushes on!!!! It had residual grease but i meant to do that, ARGGGGGHHHH!!!!

JERRY

:-) A rennlister reminded me to do it or I would've forgotten also!

update - ordered power bleeder so will advise after bleeding. How do I know what brake fluid to use, dot 3 or dot 4?

clutch pedal
 

Hi John.If you still haven't fix your problem,may be this link will help.Good luck.

Pascal[URL="http://p-car.com/diy/pedal/

Update
 

I first want to thank everyone who took the time to help me out!
I purchased a air driven power bleeder, should have gotten one of these along time ago, and bled the slave until my new ATE blue fluid was coming out strong, and THAT WAS IT!!!!!!! A few pumps on the clutch and the pedal was back to normal. I did this all my self under the car with the bleeder near and a auto fill hooked up to the master cylinder.
SmileWavy