http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224894121.jpg
OK, thanks.
Here's a really bad quality picture of the layout under the seat.
I forgot about the other coding plug. I do now have the white plug jumped.
I found a connector for the speaker wire which had the right size pins and spacing.
It's only 2 wire plug, but it fit perfectly. I'm jumped from the center to the B+ as you confirmed.

Well, I already stripped off the intake and already found the Big problem.
The 3 rubber intake tube connectors on the port side of the engine had splits. Two were really bad and the third was just starting. I'm going to do most of the other stuff anyway since I'm in there and its really easy to get to. With those splits, there was no amount of Bypass adjustment or "adaptation" that was going to take care of that.

I herd from my freind. He already had the EPROM file on his computer and he's going burn me a chip tonight.

I'll have everything tomarrow except for the O2 sensor that didn't show up.
I'm wondering if the 964 sensor will have a long enough wire to reach from the back of the engine to the plug on the harness.

BTW, how tight should the clamps on these rubber boots get?
The rubber was dry, but I think someone probably over tightened them too.
Thanks for your help and guidance.

I'll report back when I have some results!
Thanks!

Bill, the stock 964 O2 sensor should have a long enough pigtail to reach through the engine tin on the drivers side next to the valve cover. That's where the DME harness plug is located. It branches off first with the connectors that go to the reference sensor, head temp sensor, etc. You should be able to find it. If all else fails I would get another connector pair (male and female) and replace the stock round style all together. I would get the more modern water-tight automotive connectors. I had issues with the stock Porsche connector on my conversion with oxidation. It made the car undriveable at points. If you replace yours it improves reliability.

Good catch on the cracked rubber boots. When I tighten my clamps I sort of do it by feel. No too tight to squeeze the rubber and pinch it bad but tight enough so there is a good vacuum seal.

Did you check the square-profile gasket between the plastic intake runners that houses the fuel injector and the cylinder heads. This is a comon gasket to fail since it drys out from the heat. I would replace those while you have everything apart. Let us know how thing pan out.

Ingo

I have 993 heat exchangers and a 1 off M&K muffler. The O2 bung is on the muffer (On the left inlet pipe. Just behind the flange, but before the muffler.
The current sensor wire is routed from the top of the sensor to the hole in the 964 tin that is just below the engine mount. (On the 964 the mount has a long bolt with a nut below the engine carrier.) I used the ends of my SC mount that has the threaded tube as the nut. It is so much easier on a day to basis to not have to go below to loosen or remove the bolt.

The 964 O2 sensor was not in the initial shipment of parts and has not arrived yet.
I guess I'll find out on Monday!

I did include the intake seals (square profile o-rings) with the order as well as the o-ring between the throttle body and the plenum tubes. O-rings for the injectors too.

I'll be working on the little intake manifolds today. I think I'll do them each one at a time so I can keep track of how everything aligns with the fuel rail and wiring.

Should I use silicone grease on the rubber during installation. It seems like lube will hel a lot when putting the injectors back in and putting the fuel rails back on.

Any other While your there stuff I shoul look at?
Thanks!

I'm going to button up this stuff before messing with the sensors an chip.
One thing at a time so if it messes up, I know what the cause was.
Lesson learned thru some experience.

I don't like silicone grease. I would use engine oil or something like Hylomar Blue on the O-rings only.

Good News!
Put it all back together with almost all new rubber boots,o-rings etc from the filter to the heads. Also replaced a suspect fuel pressure regulator.

The engine runs great again. I temporarily have the mixture screw at 3.5 turns out. The code plug is jumped to the us version with cat. The old O2 sensor is hooked up. Idle is good, warm up is good. (I only drove it about 15 min)
It feels like it should. Off throttle dip goes down to abou 200-300 rpm on the tach, but not low enough for the battery light on the dash to light and it doesn't stall. Much smoother than ever since I did the conversion.

I have barrowed a "hammer" from a local Dorki and once I get the OBDI pigtail, I'm going to hook it up to see what's working and not. I want to play with the coding plug, O2 sensor, Mixture screw, along with the A/C pins on the DME to see what they do / don't do. A freind also gave me a copy of the stock chip that I may try and see how that functions differently.
I wonder if the adaptation procedure and/or the code plug has any effect on the aftermarket GIAC chip.

Thanks for the help and support. I'm sure I'll have some more questions later.

BTW, Ingo, can you take a look at the picture of my DME. It's bad, but you should be able to make out the white coding plug, You can't see the black one, but there is another plug there too. It's black and it's a Bosch plug like the 3 plug on the engine side of the DME harness (Like cylinder temp sensor, knock sensors, flywheel sensor.) I'm 99% sure its not for coding. Could it be for some other diagnostic function? Maybe leftover for altitude unit? Something else to do with Triptronic?

Ideas?

Hm, are you talking about the 3-pin black plug with the little steel spring clip that is pointing towards the DME box in your image?

It is my understanding this is for an optional altitude box. I never hooked one up since I live close to sea level and do not expect to go up to any serious elevation. I don't even know if this box was equipped on all cars. Others might want to chime in here.

Great that your engine is running better now.

And I am very interested what you'll find when playing with the two AC related signals. My understanding is they are inputs and will change the idle behavior. They are active when tied to GND. With nothing connected they are pulled up to B+ by internal pull-up resistors in the DME.

There are three inputs (pin 40, 41, 50). Here is my theory:

Pin 40 goes to GND whe the AC control unit switches the compressor on. The Hi/Lo switch is a safety device. Once the freon pressure is too high (system blockage) or too low (low refrigerant) the switch opens and the compressor can not come on. If the pressure is within the defined limits and the AC control unit switches the compressor on pin 40 is pulled to GND and switches the AC relay to activate the compressor clutch.

Pin 41 is the first stage of the AC condensor blower. My guess is that this fan poses an additional load on the engine (through the alternator) and that is why the DME "wants to know" about it to furter raise the idle.

Pin 50 comes straight from the AC control unit. It might enable or disable the other two inputs.

Cheers,
Ingo

I was looking at the wiring diagram and found the Bridge for the harness when the O2 sensor is not connected. (PART NUMBER 944-612-422-00) It is not avalible on Pelican. It is not obvious what this part does.

The connector has B+, Gnd and the Sensor signal lead.

I anticipate the because it is called a bridge, it probably jumps the sendor lead to either ground or B+. I'm going to have to make something, so can you tell me what it does?



I have not receieved the DME Diagnostic plug, so yesterday I wired up a standard plug (I think it's called Molex that I had bought at Radio shack a while ago.)
The female ends fit perfectly onto the male pins on the big round "Hammer" connector. So I made a pigtail and cleaned up some other wiring under the seat.

I went to plug in the hammer and the battery was dead.
I had charged it over night a few days ago and it has discharged itself.
Have you replaced the batteries in yours? What type? Maybe their NiCad and have memory?


It charged again overnight, and it was working this morning, but no time to play.

More later when I get to it.

This is from sheet 5 of the diagram

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225730701.jpg

Ran the "Hammer" yesterday evening.
All I can say is that it's great to have confirmation when things are working!

It confirmed my code plug setting: USA with CAT

I found 1 code for the "Hall" sensor (I don't have that do I?)

I did the drive links and herd everything work except for 2 injectors that must have been Quiet. COMMENTS APPRECIATED

The ICV was running between 50-60% and rose slightly as it should after turning on the A/C, lights and defogger. After running the adaptation process it hovered slightly closer to 50%.

I did the knock routine and reported 0 (Zero) what is normal?

The head temp gradually rose and hovered about 255 deg. F. This was light driving on an open road.

Intake temp seemed like it was accurate. It rose to about 150 F when idling in the driveway while warming up. It cooled to what seemed like ambient while driving around.

The Load was reading in a units "ms" what does this stand for? What is normal?
I think it went up under hard acceleration (I assume normal)

Timing was very interesting to watch as it advanced during light cruise and dropped back as load was increased.

The O2 sensor voltage was jumping all over the place but stayed above 0.01 and 0.8 it seemed like its working correctly and the ECU is responding to control the mixture. At full throttle, under load, switched closed, The sensor put out a constant 0.7 V. I need to look at my chart and see what that translates to AF Ratio. I assume for a street car working on closed loop this is about right.
Comments?

Today, I'll do another session and watch the O2 sensor voltage during warm up.
I still suspect the heater is not working, but I'm not sure if that in itself would throw a code. Anyone?

On the Idle dip, when blipping the throttle up to about 4500-5000 and taking my foot off the pedal, the gauge needle pauses at about 2000 rpm like its trying to slow the transition then it catches itself about 400-600.

This also seems to be working with the AC running, although there isn't much load on the compressor with cool temps outside.
I have not yet played with the AC signal wires 40.41 & 50 yet.

Any and all comments on these results are appreciated.
Maybe someone has a link to more info on the hammer and test results?

Thanks!

Bill, some comments:

1. Hall sensor
Yes you do have a hall sensor, it is inside the distributor and dertermines the 720 degree TDC. It is required to identify which cylinder caused knocking. Without this signal present all cylinders will be retarded by a fixed amount and you leave power on the table. There is a 2-pin Bosch connector on the DME harness that goes to the distributor. Mine had a fractured wire inside the plug from improper handling. I cut the plug open fixed it and sealed it with epoxy - the code went away.

2. Knock count
When I do that and drive spirited I do get some knocks in the range of 5 to 20 per 10.000 ignition events. This is fine. I think you want less than 0.1%. It depends a lot on ambient temperatures, gas quality, and driving style. Zero would have me a little bit concerned because I want to know that I CAN register knocks when they happen, but then again it is crappy gas out here in SoCal. If you get zero counts try to stomp it in 5th gear at about 2000RPM and keep your foot in it to about 3500 RPM while the engine is fully warmed up. That is usually when most pinging happens (at least for me). Make sure you have enough open road and no one near seeing your stupid grin when you feel all that torque in the early car......

3. The load signal
It is my understading this is the injector opening time in milliseconds. More load means more fuel has to enter the engine. It should be around 0.9 msec during idle.

4. O2-sensor signal
The hammer is just to slow to properly update the O2 sensor signal in real-time. It is supposed to bounce between 0.1 and 0.9 volts with about 2 to 5 bounces per second. Slower bouncing means the sensor has aged. Yours seems to be fine.

5. Injector test
If you don't hear the injector just move closer. Sometimes they are quiet. But if they were not working there is no way you get descent idle. So that should be fine.

Have fun,
Ingo

Thanks,
I was mistaken in thinking the hall sensor was the second sensor that was on the flywheel on earlier cars. Now they have the missing tooth / teeth.
From what you said, it sounds like the Hall Sensor problem is actually an oppertunity!

Come to think of it, the timing seemed like it should have advanced more.
Is there an example of a timing curve like the ones in the Workshop manuals for the SC?

It would be great to get some extra kick, but I never knew what I was missing!

I'll make some notes on the load signal.

I'll also try your test on the knock sensors, but maybe no knock because the missing hall sensor is retarding the timing?

Earlier today, I watched the O2 sensor output from the time the engine was started. You could see the signals start to change slowly and get faster as the sensor warmed up.

I still want to check the heater on the O2 sensor.
I think that maybe the base CO setting is very rich because I get the rich smell that goes away after a short period of time.
I'm thinking that I should change the code plug to "no Cat" and set the mixture, then set it back to "with cat".

I don't know if this would be the same as just disconnecting the the sensor to get the base "open loop" mode?

Thanks again!

Ingo,
My Hall Sensor Fault ended up being simular to yours.
I unplugged the connector from the distributer and nothing changed.
Meter measurements were all wrong.


After opening up the rubber boot, I had to cut open another cover that looked like shrink tube. Insde that there was some other sealing material.
After getting inside, the ground (sheilding) was still good, but the brown wire (+) and the white signal wire were both cut. The thin wire insulation also looked like it had cooked a bit.

I felt lucky that I found this close to the connector instead of somewhere up inside the harness.

It's all fixed now and running even better than before. (It finally feels RIGHT)
One symptom that also showed up on the hammer was that at idle, the timing was retarded substantially. (I didn't know what normal was.) Now it's idling at about 7 deg (I assume BTDC).

I can't tell you how much time the diagnostic tool saved me in finding and solving, and then confirming the fix. I'm not sure if I ever would have diagnosed the hall sensor wire with out it and without you sharing your experience. (I did find your post over on Rennlist)

So the issues that were creating my problems were:
1. Split rubber intake boots
2. Fuel Pressure Regulator
3. Hall Sensor wires

By the way. The Hammer also reads two of the 3 input signals related to air conditioning.
I was able to watch the hammer as I played with the 3 leads that I have terminated with bullit connectors.

First, the wire from pin 50 must be grounded.
Then, if the wires from pins 40 & 41 are grounded individually, the hammer confirms that the circuits are closed.

Now that everythig else is running smoothly, I could definately notice a breif change in RPM while ground each wire. Now that I know how to make this happen, I'd really like to understand what it does inside the DME.

While I was making my conversion haress, I included a wire to go to the A/C relay in the front fuse panel. I also made provisions for a relay to ground these wires when the A/C was turned on. I don't need it now, but I'll probably play with that next summer.
I do have the A/C working using the 964 compressor and a special manifold sold by Griffiths along with 1 new hose. It's working on 134 now and I may make some other improvements down the road. It's not great, but it will keep me from soaking thru my work shirt on a hot day. (At least in the morning on the way!)

Thanks again for your help!