Q: Orientation for installing Engine Sound Pad
 

I got a new sound pad today and will install it in the engine compartment. The engine is out for clutch job. It is called Ultimate sound pad which has an aluminum foil layer on one side. Here is my silly question. Is the aluminum side supposed to face the firewall or motor when installed? I have checked previous threads but I see both versions. It makes sense to me if black form side faces the motor to enhance more sound absorption.

Thanks,

BW :)

I just installed mine last week...I actually put the foil out to engine to reflect heat and "bounce" noise...not sure if its right...but it sure looks pretty 8-p...Kind-of remindes me of the McClearn F1 with the gold plated heat reflectors in the engine bay ;-)

I'd be really interested to know If I got this right...

The only pad they sell at pelican is shown with shiny side up. That's the only way that make sense. There is a lot of infrared radiation coming off an engine and it is effectively reflected by a mirror / silver surface. It makes no sense to have that mirror surface towards your passenger compartment as it does nothing when heat is transferred by conduction through the pad material.

I am in the same boat right now. The pad is sagging and I am torn between installing an aluminum strip holding it up at the edges or ripping it out either to keep it blank or installing a brand new pad.

Right now I am leaning towards the aluminum strip. Least amount of effort and clean result.

Anyone have any input on how much louder and warmer it gets without a sound pad? I had none on my SC and it was just fine.

G

I got an answer from the manufacturer. They said the aluminum foil side faces the cabin and rubber side faces the engine. I think the sample pic we see on the PP site shows another product which has foil on both sides. I should find someone in my area who did opposite way. It may not be much different at least to our sense but should be interesting. BTW, anyone works for Bose or JBL here?

BW :)

I think I did right to my driving style. I most likely open the windows and it's a Targa. Yeah, I am in sunny California! So I would rather absorb the sound than reflect in the engine compartment. I don't think my ears are that sensitive but in theory...

But I really wanted my engine room shinny though.

BW :)

Thanks for checking-up on this...I still have not done the engine re-install...And I only "mocked it up" i.e. no adhesive used...I now need to decide as to whether or not to flip it over and "read the instructions" ;-)

Here are some pix...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300384023.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300384128.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300384231.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300384884.jpg

I have only used the trim adhesive on the top side of the pad since it's held by 10 round clips and fasteners for hoses and lines. Also, to bind and waterproof the edge, I used the rubberize material(red) that is normally used for electrical wire for insulation. So it won't shed.

Hope it helps.

BW :)

I ran for a long time without the sound pad, didnt notice much difference, I put in the foil backed one and the Mfgr says the foil faces the passenger compartment, not the engine

I took mine out and the engine compartment looks better (IMHO) and the noise difference was very slight. I also think extra noise is a good thing.

I ended up pulling the sagging pad and not replacing it. I cleaned it up well and kept the plastic puck nuts in case I change my mind. I can't tell a difference in noise or temperature. Looks much nicer in there now, too. Getting all the adhesive off was a PITA but with a mask and some adhesive remover, I got it scrubbed nicely.

G

Is it possible to replace the pad while the engine is in the car? Mine is sagging. Likely more difficult, but is it even possible?

You'd have to at least drop the engine a few inches to gain access to the whole pad. It wouldn't be easy but possible.

I changed the engine pad in my old 911SC by dropping the engine about four or five inches and it came out great but there looks to be more stuff in the 964/993.

I just replaced my 993's pad when the engine was out with the Appbiz Ultimate pad from here on Pelican. It was a bit challenging getting the new pad situated with the engine out, so I can't imagine the number of swear words that would be induced if I tried with the engine in.

If the pad's sagging near the trunk edge and the engine's not out already, I would consider David Etter's Pad Keeper (The Pad Keeper). I even installed one on my new pad because I liked the clean look.

For those using the Ultimate pad, I found that a pencil-style soldering iron was the easiest way to punch holes in the ultimate pad.

Here's a link to my full write-up. Two-Fourths Full: A Porsche 993 Blog: Engine Pad Replacement

I put the double foil in one cer whilst engine out due to sagging so bad. PITA scraping the old stuff off. My other car was sagging bad also. I ordered " the pad keeper " no affiliation. And installed in 15 minutes. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477864751.jpg

I'd rather stick myself in the eye with a fork than trying that. Everything is possible, but unless you have a show car, why not wait until the engine is out down the road?

What I have seen done is pad removal with a partial engine drop. On a 3.2. That did not remove all the goop adhesive though. It was better looking than the sagging pad but still required an engine out to clean it all up nicely.

G

I am in the process of installing a new pad with the engine still in. Suspension, airbox, alternator, a/c compressor is free....just slowly taking my time with this....great time to clean the engine bay though!