So who's running an OEM rear bumper?

TechnoViking · TechnoViking's Garage

I got hit last year in a race hard enough to buckle the rear fender (a little). Got me thinking that, with a fiberglass bumper, there is just not much back there between my engine and the rest of the world

So I'm thinking of putting the heavy metal rear bumper back on my SC but without the bumperetts.

I could drill holes in it for weight savings. Maybe a "swiss cheese" metal bumper is still much better than fiberglass considering it attaches to the frame with the impact springs (also heavy).

Then again, maybe the OEM bumper as-is would be just fine and I'll just deal with the extra weight back there. Maybe I' won't even notice the difference.

Anyone else have experience "going back" to the heavier bumper?

North Coast Cab · North Coast Cab's Garage

I had a fiberglass bumper on my race car and behind it a 2" piece of tubing bent in the shape of the bumper. It was attached using similar tubing to where the shocks were, but I suppose you could use them too. Either way the rear of the 911 is not set-up to absorbe much of a blow.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

the late factory model of a bar behind the vulnerable fascia is a good one. As above I installed nerf bars under the f/g cover, not as full coverage as factory but better than nothing and lots lighter in a critical area

chrisp · 02:55 PM

I had the option to go with a glass rear bumper but decided to keep the OEM one because our cars like to back into things.

I drilled a few large holes in it which saved almost 5 lbs. When I took off all the cosmetic stuff (trim, bumperettes, etc) it saved a good chunk of weight something north of 10 lbs. I also switched to Euro crush tubes in place of the bumper shocks and I think that was another 6 lbs total. So I was able to take out 21+ lbs and retain OEM crash worthiness. I've been told fiberglass is a total savings of 30 lbs so I'm not that far off of the ultralight set-up. It's a bad place place to carry an extra 10 lbs but I'd prefer to minimize any damage from off-track excursions.

Also, you can tow the car by the bumper if you have euro crush tubes. With a glass bumper you have to add a tow hook which is at least 1-2 lbs. So I guess I am really only 8-9 lbs disadvantaged.

chrisp · 01-02-2008, 02:59 PM

Here's a pic.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisp

I had the option to go with a glass rear bumper but decided to keep the OEM one because our cars like to back into things.

I drilled a few large holes in it which saved almost 5 lbs. When I took off all the cosmetic stuff (trim, bumperettes, etc) it saved a good chunk of weight something north of 10 lbs. I also switched to Euro crush tubes in place of the bumper shocks and I think that was another 6 lbs total. So I was able to take out 21+ lbs and retain OEM crash worthiness. I've been told fiberglass is a total savings of 30 lbs so I'm not that far off of the ultralight set-up. It's a bad place place to carry an extra 10 lbs but I'd prefer to minimize any damage from off-track excursions.

Also, you can tow the car by the bumper if you have euro crush tubes. With a glass bumper you have to add a tow hook which is at least 1-2 lbs. So I guess I am really only 8-9 lbs disadvantaged.

Yes, on my 911 I started w/ and kept the euro tubes to mount the nerf bars, I seem to recall that the fronts went to the back and the backs were shortened for the front, could have been the reverse though.

For my 993 I drilled the stock bumper backing f/r it's quite effective at reducing the weight

JP911 · JP911's Garage

Any more info on the Euro crush tubes? Why are they better suited to towing? And, were they used on any US models or only Euros?

gunlover05 · 01-02-2008, 05:42 PM

I can tell you I got a pretty good whack in the rear of my 85 carrera with stock bumper on the highway, but WITHOUT my 14lbs of bumperettes...still trying to get the drivers insurance sorted out...my bumper still had the US shock absorbers and i can see where in pushed in about 1 1/4 and came back out...only a small paint rub and my lower valence got bent a little, but otherwise you can't tell much....took quite a smack....if that had been just "glass", i would definitely be looking at big damage....

those bumper shocks are heavy, and some people replace them with euro tubes (saves about 10lbs total), or weld up new tubes out of exhaust pipe and brackets to save a little weight out back

anyhow, i think because our cars and brake lights are so low, and without a 3rd brakelight for most 911s, people don't see our brake lights on the road as well...i notice several people behind me putting brakes on hard....

chrisp · 01-02-2008, 07:02 PM

JP911, euro crush tubes came on euro cars because they did not have the repeatable 5mph standard that the usa requires. They are rigid unlike the shock absorber style of the usa spec part. Since they are rigid, they can be pulled on and subsequently the bumper iteself can be pulled on. A usa shock tube cannot be pulled on and the only way to attach a two hook is to bolt is directly to the chassis somewhere...same as when you have fiberglass bumpers.

I've thought of making a sub-structure to go behind my glass front bumper but haven't come across the resources to pull it off (material and people skills). Although I don't think it would save much damage in a wall impact, it would help take the load and not tear off my front bumper if there were a "love tap" while on track.

Don't make your own crush tubes unless you build them just like the factory part. If you look closely at the factory euro crush tube they are dimpled so they crush properly. A piece of tubing is very strong in compression and would just punch through the chassis if it wasn't pre-dimpled. Try this next time you crush a beer can on your head. Compare a perfect can to one that has a slight crush already in it.

TechnoViking · TechnoViking's Garage

Thanks guys. I tried finding pics of the Euro crush tubes, but no luck. Anybody got a pic of these?

chrisp · 01-03-2008, 08:37 AM

You can see the dimpled metal I was referring to...it almost looks like it's been in a crash already.

I found a thread that confirms the weight savings of 6lbs per end of the car.

jaldeguer · 01-14-2008, 04:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisp

You can see the dimpled metal I was referring to...it almost looks like it's been in a crash already.

I found a thread that confirms the weight savings of 6lbs per end of the car.

Hi, would you know if these euro crash tubes are on the ROW units as well or just the Euro versions?

Thanks,

Jay

chrisp · 01-14-2008, 06:30 AM

I don't know. Anything that has a 5mph bumper requirement has the USA bumper tubes.

sgilmore · 01-18-2008, 06:17 PM

Can anyone tell me whre to get the Euro Tubes?
Thanks

chrisp · 01-18-2008, 06:43 PM

Used: place a WTB on Pelican and Rennlist or call a dismantler. When I got mine 3 years ago DC Automotive had some in stock.

New: Pelican lists them. Dealer may have them too.

sgilmore · 01-18-2008, 11:51 PM

I searched Pelican and nothing came up. Are they called something else here?

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgilmore

I searched Pelican and nothing came up. Are they called something else here?

The Part Number is visible on the photo above. Search on this:

911-505-045-03-OEM; it also shows up in the parts diagram and is called an "Impact Pipe"