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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 736
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914 / 911 front tube-framing
Hi,
Anybody got suggestions / pics for (semi) tubeframing the front of the 914 (I guess it would be more or less the same on a 911)? I'm already planning to tie the top shock mounts back to the rollcage and front to the front mounts of the a-arms Basically the area that I'm stuck with is where the crossmember is located. Is there any better way to connect the passenger compartment to the rear mounts of the front a-arms? Or should quit whining and leave it as is? Cheers, Jeroen (hmmm... what else can I cut off my teener?) www.berloth.nl/914 |
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There are pictures of various cars on the Pelican Parts Photo section taken at previous events and also look in the Owner's photo gallery section. I have hundreds of shots taken at races over the years but they are on paper, not digital. Here aare a few of my front end. it is not completed as I still need to tie the front end to the mmid section. If Brad's site was up he has lots of pictures of his cars under construction. And there is Gunner Racing's web site with shot of thier 914 race car under construction.
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Jacksonville. Florida https://www.flickr.com/photos/ury914/ |
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for the pics. That is what I more or less had in mind What I was wondering about was the bottom end, underneath the car, where the crossmember connects the passenger compartment to the front trunk area... Any reason not to weld the crossmember to the chassis (flame away at my ignorance )Cheers, Jeroen (loads of stupid ideas) |
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One reason is that I couldn't get my steering rack out if the the crossmember was welded in. I had to loosen the crossmember to get the rack out to install tubro tie rods.
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Jacksonville. Florida https://www.flickr.com/photos/ury914/ |
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Hi Paul,
I saw the steering-rack was bolted to the crossmember from below and figured I didn't need to remove the crossmember to get it out... Thanks for sharing the hands-on experience Cheers, Jeroen |
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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Pauls method is dead on.
I cant say that I have ever had a rack that needed to be unbolted, but I also beleive there isnt much to be gained by welding the cross bar into the chassis. Paul, Thanks for not cutting out the factory strut tower brace. I laugh regulary at the number people that cut this out and PAY for a tower brace later. I really like the fact that you bought the factory appearing fenders. B |
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Stay away from my Member
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Agoura, CA
Posts: 5,773
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Yeah, now I can see how he got his car so light! (17xx lbs)
I'd like to see mine in the 19xx range with some serious gutting, f/g lids and bumpers, but stock metal fenders, doors etc. Can always go wilder with it later. Re the front bulkhead/brace - isn't the main reason a lot of guys cut it out so as to have room for a fuel cell...and a big oil cooler? Obviously from Paul's pic, the cell will fit along with the factory bulkhead, if you put your cooler out front of the body, Brad style.
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Chris C. 1973 914 "R" (914-6) | track toy 2009 911 Turbo 6-speed (997.1TT) | street weapon 2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance | daily driver 2001 F150 Supercrew 4x4 | hauler |
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Chris,
1950 is easy without fiberglass. Mike Harris' car weighs 1940 or so with only a fiberglass front bumper. 1. early doors. 2. gutted interior. (dash is in place) 3. undercoating removed (if you have any) This is all it takes to get to 1950. We have a 914 in the shop right now that weighs 1400lbs. Scary light. B |
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Stay away from my Member
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Agoura, CA
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This car already has the interior pretty much gutted (still has dash and windshield/rollbar upholstery pieces, not much else); no heating or vent equipment; early doors; f/g bumpers. I don't know what it weighs at this point. I have a f/g front lid to bolt on if I feel like it, and obviously could get a rear one at some point too. If I bite the bullet and forget about being street legal, I could pull the headlights, wiper motor, and a whole bunch of other crap.
I would have to eat 1 pt per 25lbs below production class weight with POC, which I can't afford if I'm gonna remain in my targeted class, but I could always ballast it back up to class weight, and put the ballast somewhere helpful.
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Chris C. 1973 914 "R" (914-6) | track toy 2009 911 Turbo 6-speed (997.1TT) | street weapon 2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance | daily driver 2001 F150 Supercrew 4x4 | hauler |
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Brad,
I'll have to admit I was a little nervous about posting detailed pictures of my car because I'd be opening myself up to be flamed by every bench racer on the planet. But for you to say I did it right is a comliment, thanks. Cutting out material just to weld it back in, doesn't make sence to me. The stock fenders keep it narrow for autox's and of course are lighter and I can still get some tire under them. I plan on making my own rear fenders, but pull them out about 1 1/2". They will still appear pretty stock to the non-914 trained eye. In the future I plan on removing the windshield and roof. I've got an idea to mold the cut down windshield into the cowl and f/g hood. So when you take the hood/cowl/windscreen off, the whole car opens up from the interior to the front bumper. I realize I'll need to tie the suspension pick up points together when I do this. How do you get a car down to 1400 pounds? Is the stock "roll-bar" roof section fiberglass? Paul
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Cut the bulkhead out in front of your feet and just leave the cowl area. This thing weighs a ton. You will have to support the bushing for the steering rack, but this is a no brainer.
You can run a F/B targa bar. The factory targa bar weighs over 25lbs ( I have grossly over estimated this in the past) and.. its weight up high. Lose it. Cut everything out of the rear trunk. Lose all the sheet metal around the engine (engine shelf) In SCCA GT classes we have to run windshields now. My tube car is grand fathered, but it has a windshield anyway. I have pics I can show you if you need to see any of this. B |
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Sure some pictures would be nice. I've cut the trunk out and the engine area sheet metal. I couldn't believe the amount of electrical wire in a 914, there must be 10 pounds worth.
Where can I get a f/g targa bar? Paul
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If anyone is interested in a stillborn 914-6 race project, go to www.tremotorsports.com and click thru to cars for sale. We have a race chassis that never was finished- not for the faint of heart, but it is a bargain if you add up what was spent on it
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Hey hey..
Just barely legal for PCA club racing. Its Jeff correct ?? B |
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The chassis has a cage built by Aasco Racing with extended rear shock mounts, GT style plating on the rear panels, a real 914-6 bulkhead mount, and other little details. The client spent over $6500 getting the car to this point. Yep- it would be legal for PCA
Thanks Dave |
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It appears the chassis stiff kit was installed when the tub was complete.
Little rough for my taste. The cage work does appear to be decent. I'm kinda surprised Aasco was involved at one point. If the suspension points had been raised during this process I would probably have been interested in it. Good luck. B |
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Last I heard the "Jeff Hayes tub" is in NM; Phil van Buskirk actually owned it when it was sitting here in SoCal.
BTW Jeff finished up his silver 3.8 914 and has been driving it with POC sucessfully; I haven't seen him at the track yet but the car looked awesome when I saw it in his garage a while back.
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Chris C. 1973 914 "R" (914-6) | track toy 2009 911 Turbo 6-speed (997.1TT) | street weapon 2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance | daily driver 2001 F150 Supercrew 4x4 | hauler |
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Yep.
He had the car at the TributeToLemans back a few months ago. I was told the tub was done and being raced. Didnt know where. B |
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