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-   -   86 carrera LS1 swap (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=1052886)

VacantSky 02-17-2020 09:00 AM

86 carrera LS1 swap
 
Hi all, hoping for some advice on suspension here. Iím nearing completion an LS1 swap in my carrera using a 930 LSD trans. The car itself has seen a lot of weight reduction and as such it now sits 2.5 inches higher than it did in stock engine/interior/creature comfort configuration set at euro height.

Iím really trying to avoid going to full coilover (despite them being easier to set up) and was just hoping to hear from people who are on t-bars still and what sizes they used. I know the car will squat under hard acceleration. A lot. Hoping to remedy that. Itís mainly street driven, however I enjoy a firm ride. I was thinking 22/31 or 22/32. It will be on 17X8/9 Fikse when it hits the road. Opinions? Thanks in advance!

Couple pics
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1581958006.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1581958006.jpg

And a before to show the previous height on the same indexing:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1581958312.jpg

Yan2947 02-17-2020 05:00 PM

Awesome! 31 or 32 should be fine but don't forget a skid plate. I'm doing an 86 also but will be doing coilovers. I will weld the the limited support at the top of the shock towers but will not do a roll cage. Hopefully, that will be enough. I have an 89 with an ls1 and either used 31 or 32's with the skid plate after loosing an oil pan on the squat. Good luck!

VacantSky 02-18-2020 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yan2947 (Post 10755966)
Awesome! 31 or 32 should be fine but don't forget a skid plate. I'm doing an 86 also but will be doing coilovers. I will weld the the limited support at the top of the shock towers but will not do a roll cage. Hopefully, that will be enough. I have an 89 with an ls1 and either used 31 or 32's with the skid plate after loosing an oil pan on the squat. Good luck!

Awesome thank you, which oil pan were you using? I have the corvette batwing and the trans actually sits lower than the pan! This picture of course is with the car sitting higher than I want, I will reset to euro height(ish) so I’ll lose about 2”. But this is to show the trans sitting lower than the pan

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582033974.jpg

911JeffS 02-18-2020 02:07 PM

Vacantsky
I used 30/31 TB's on my 77 cause that's what 77 TURBO used. I actually jumped a speed bump car squatted perfectly no 2x bounce. Car felt like a rally car ! It was quite awesome. I have a bat wing oil pan and Bilsteins sports.
Hey Yan, always been very helpful on here, cheers brother.

Yan2947 02-18-2020 08:11 PM

I also have the batwing. Always tinkering and trying new things. Squat is important with the amount of torque we put out so keep it in check. You can mount a camera on your dash when you do a 0 to 60 in sub 4 seconds. Do you squat or is the horizon level. Be cautious on speed bumps. Even if your tranny is a little lower the drop from the speed bump might hit your oil pan. Fabricating a skid plate may save a little future work...

Cheers Jeff! Everyone has been so helpful over the years. Been a great learning experience. I was re-doing an 80 sc 383 but now I am doing an 86 911 with the same 383. I just got an 86 930 tranny and putting in a guard lsd. Its been shortened at CMS and getting some re-fresh locally. Not sure if I am going to mate it with the 383 or get an ls7 or lsx. Once it is put together it will first run with the 383 and 915 that came with the 80 because it is already sorted out. I will be doing either the toy-jet because Clemmon at toyjet is awesome and his stuff just works or come up with something in the rear to cool with. Still doing body work so all is slow...

VacantSky 02-19-2020 09:53 AM

Thanks guys! I managed to grab some 31ís for the rear, I think Iíll get some 22ís for the front. And Yan youíre right, definitely wouldnít hurt to have a skid plate. Should be simple enough to fabricate under the batwing.

Iím pretty cautious with bumps and lowered cars. This was my most recent project that I ended up giving up to chase the 911 dream, she would high center on the large speed bumps out in New Mexico before I moved to Florida.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582134555.jpg

Kenny

VacantSky 02-21-2020 09:42 AM

I don’t think I’ll use this page as a build thread per se, as I document most of my build on Instagram under @86outlaw. But I’ll share what I did with particular things on my swap to help others make decisions. I opted not to go with the complete renegade kit as I didn’t like what I saw of their water pump adaptor and hoses, so I ordered just the cradle from them. I have the toyjet billet adaptor for the water pump, and will likely use the water pump from Jegs that he recommends. I purchased the bellhousing adaptor and clutch directly from Kennedy and it came with all the hardware you need to mount the engine and trans together. I had read some misinformation that all you get is the aluminum adaptor, that’s not true! I managed to save some money (not much) by shopping around on the parts vs buying a kit, but I think I was mostly satisfied because I got to pick and choose which parts I wanted to use.

To me a “good swap” is one where the original dash is operational if it’s not replaced, no dead gauges. So to get the stock gauges to work I drilled and tapped the water pump adaptor for the stock Porsche temp sensor. And I drilled and tapped an oil blanking plate for the LS also to fit stock Porsche sensors to get the pressure gauge and idiot lights going. I know the temp won’t be as accurate in that location vs the cylinder head, but these gauges are just quick reference to get a general idea of the engines operating parameters anyway, what I have for engine management will tell me everything I need to know.. the only gauge that is dead is the oil level. But I will pull this out and place the guts of a VDO volt meter in there.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582304884.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582304884.jpg

For the engine management I guess I lucked out because in early 2019, before I even fathomed my swap, Holley released the terminator X for $995. It is a self learning fully user programmable ECU and harness that is plug and play with all the stock LS sensors except for one or two. It comes with a hand held touch screen so you can adjust your tune on the fly and set AFR targets. For the price it’s an amazing product and I’m excited to use it. I had to modify the harness a little to work with a rear engine, flipped intake but it was pretty straight forward. It’s a simple 7 wire hookup (3 of which go to the battery, and one is a chassis ground), and comes with the option of controlling radiator fans and a few other outputs with a provided plug in harness. Just an awesome piece of tech for the price. You won’t always have to go to a tuner when upgrading parts! I mounted the ECU under the seat like stock. (I’m leaving the harness exposed because I have zero sound deadening under my carpet set and it would bulge the carpet). The handheld touchscreen comes with a mount so you can dash mount it if you please, and you can pull up any of the engines parameters that the ECU is reading directly from the stock GM sensors. Again, great investment!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582304977.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582304977.jpg

For the headers I wanted to use something OEM and I managed to figure out that C6 corvette LS3 manifolds work with the renegade cradle. Which is nice because it gives me the option to use OEM components, and perhaps down the road go aftermarket designed for OEM fitment and it still work with the exhaust I’ll have fabricated.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582304977.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582304977.jpg

Haven’t put together an intake yet but I think I’m onto something that might work in the tight space without having to use the cast elbow, it’s more budget friendly and will look better (my opinion). I’ll update next week when brown Santa delivers it..

For the radiator and cooling system the goal is to retain functional use of the car. I don’t want to lose the frunk to a rad, and I don’t want it in the wing. So I think I have a good solution using an RSR oil cooler duct in the front tub along with the space I have behind my RUF valance. Will update when I get to it!

Yan2947 02-21-2020 12:40 PM

So where are you placing the radiator...

VacantSky 02-21-2020 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yan2947 (Post 10760140)
So where are you placing the radiator...

I have a RUF valance, so I can fit a sufficient size radiator for the LS behind the bumper and valance (Iíve trimmed the bottom lip of the bumper blade off) so I just need to put an RSR oil cooler duct in the tub so air can flow efficiently through the radiator and out the back, not just straight into the tub as it sits currently creating turbulence. Iíve found a triple core double pass that will work. Made a template out of cardboard and it fits well

911JeffS 02-22-2020 05:38 AM

Nice job Vacant, looking good, the upgrades you mention look well worth it. cant wait for spring. cheers.

Yan2947 03-27-2020 06:01 AM

Kenny, any updates? Hope all are healthy!

VacantSky 03-27-2020 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yan2947 (Post 10799961)
Kenny, any updates? Hope all are healthy!

No updates yet, the wife and I went to Disney the week after my last post, and then all this craziness broke out! Iím active duty Air Force ďessential personnelĒ and sheís a nurse so we are both pretty busy. That plus a 15 month old equates to not much garage time lately :( but Iím not giving up on the project donít worry about that! Weíre doing a divided work plan soon so Iíll have some time off to catch up and hopefully get some updates. We are well thank you, and I hope you are too!

I actually got something in the mail today that I got myself into with the whole ďwhile youíre in thereĒ disease that I have lol. Itís an E39 BMW trunk fuse/relay block. Iím doing a battery relocation to the smugglers box and wanted to update and move the fuses with it. This 20 fuse panel with up to 7 relay slots delivered to my door for (I love eBay) $15 looks like it will do the trick. I just need to buy some more terminals to fill it out. The beauty of it is you can order the terminals ganged together or individual so it will be a fairly simple mod without having to have a bunch of jumper wires like I see on other solutions thatís arenít $300+



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585348638.jpg

VacantSky 03-27-2020 03:47 PM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585349073.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585349073.jpg

Couple more shots showing the relay slots and the ganged connections. It should fit nicely along the back edge of the smugglers box with some minor mods to the plastic housing

Yan2947 03-28-2020 11:59 AM

Keep up the great work and thank you for your service! What is nice about these projects is that they don't go bad as time passes when all this Corona stuff passes we can pick up where we left off.

Yan

911tracker85 03-29-2020 06:04 AM

Quote:

I have a RUF valance, so I can fit a sufficient size radiator for the LS behind the bumper and valance (Iíve trimmed the bottom lip of the bumper blade off) so I just need to put an RSR oil cooler duct in the tub so air can flow efficiently through the radiator and out the back, not just straight into the tub as it sits currently creating turbulence. Iíve found a triple core double pass that will work. Made a template out of cardboard and it fits well
what radiator?

I have already cut the tub for the RSR deflector before I decided to go with an LS swap rather than the cost / time to have my 3.3 motor fully rebuilt.

I am thinking an LS3. still trying to find some thread with LS7 and dry sump builds.

either way I am planning for a 3 radiator in front. plan to use a 934 front valance and cut the bottom of my bumper blade too.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585486968.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585486968.jpg

VacantSky 03-29-2020 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911tracker85 (Post 10802171)
what radiator?

I have already cut the tub for the RSR deflector before I decided to go with an LS swap rather than the cost / time to have my 3.3 motor fully rebuilt.

I am thinking an LS3. still trying to find some thread with LS7 and dry sump builds.

either way I am planning for a 3 radiator in front. plan to use a 934 front valance and cut the bottom of my bumper blade too.

If you’re planning on a triple radiator up front this one might not work out so well, being a dual pass the inlet and outlet are both on the same side. It would work great with a single fender rad setup which I think would be sufficient for LS3/LS7 with another high quality radiator.

After seeing that nice shot of the RSR duct you provided it might not work with my rad.. I didn’t realize how low the top of the duct was. It definitely needs to be taller (which I’m ok with, I planned on losing the whole area between the gas tank and the front of the tub anyway). Look at the “tucked” radiators for the Nissan 240SX and Honda Civics/Integras. Very compact And built for large horsepower.

I was wrong on it being 3 core, it’s a double core but they are 1-1/4” tubes so it’s a 2.5” thick core 9” tall and 20” wide (24” overall, a tad longer with the removable mounting tabs). I have one for a civic sitting in the garage (from private label mfg) and it looks small but the overall cooling capacity/dimensions calculate to be a little more than the OEM C5 corvette radiator. It should be fine for my application as it’s a street cruiser and I plan to keep the engine as stock as possible. Also I’m “adding” as much lightness to the car as I can where I feel comfortable which also helps. But I will add a fender mount radiator if I do need more capacity or decide to increase power. it has a dual fan shroud built into it too and with a pair of spal 7.5” fans it sits at 5.5” thick/deep total. The extra nice touch on it is it has the option of being a regular hose hookup, or an AN fitting for the inlet’s and outlets

Some bad mock up pictures, but you get the idea. I think with the larger front duct I’ll be able to have the rad recess into the tub a little which will give it some minor bump protection from the bumper. I’m going to cut the tub soon.. makes me nervous..!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585534073.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532222.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532222.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532766.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532222.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532222.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532222.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532222.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yan2947 (Post 10801499)
Keep up the great work and thank you for your service! What is nice about these projects is that they don't go bad as time passes when all this Corona stuff passes we can pick up where we left off.

Yan

Thanks I appreciate it! I managed to get some time to tinker with the fuse panel yesterday and it will work a treat. I have it mounted in the smugglers box with some of the self drilling/tapping screws Porsche used in the interior. I need to get some more of them, they are great!
Here it is trimmed down and then installed, I’m still finishing up the harness so excuse the wire mess!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532766.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585532766.jpg

VacantSky 03-29-2020 06:58 PM

Here’s another shot of the inlet outlet options (10 pic limit per post)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585533491.jpg

Forgot to say that when it’s all mounted up I will shroud/seal the opening in the RUF valance to feed the rad only to ensure good airflow over it

VacantSky 04-05-2020 01:21 PM

I managed to get some time on the car yesterday and today. So my intake solution is in/on and I’m satisfied with it and the clearance provided so I’ll spill the details..

The shock tower crossmember had to be massaged with my good friend Mr. Maul Hammer to make the throttle body fit so I wasn’t afraid to do a little more massaging to have an intake fit. Some people don’t have this clearance issue so if massaging this area is not for you for “reversible reasons” then this intake solution might not work for you, I can’t say. I really didn’t want to shell out $300+ for the 180* intake elbows sold by renegade and toy-jet because 1: price, and 2: I didn’t like the look (I know, I know.. function>form.. but my wallet also functions better when it’s form is larger ;) ). So I wasted $12 on an eBay 90* silicone coupler. I cut it down as much as I could but found that it still interferes at the rear firewall. I was defeated and expecting to shell out the money, but was going to wait until I progressed further with the swap. Well fast forward to doing some LS6 valley cover/PCV research I stumbled on a picture of an odd looking silicone coupler for tight fitment. Did some research and managed to find a company in the US that sells them in 3.5”. It’s called a cobra neck coupler for pretty apparent reasons:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586117453.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586117453.jpg

I got it from treadstone performance, they’re based in Florida. I still had to cut it down due to the firewall clearance but with a little extra clearance of the shock tower crossmember for the “cobra neck” it fits very well. I hammered the seam flat and basically made a bowl out of the top sheet metal. The fancy coupler along with a 90* aluminum pipe and a 3.5” K&N cone filter brought me into a complete intake for right around $100!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586117593.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586117593.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586117593.jpg

I’ll remove it all again and strip/clean/repaint that area for corrosion protection..!

VacantSky 04-05-2020 01:37 PM

I’m all about using what’s in hand before I resort to buying stuff. The LS6 valley cover is a better breathing option for the crank case and lessens the LS oil consumption. Problem is the early 98-01 LS1 steam vent tubes create a clearance issue with the intake manifold due to the valley cover being raised slightly in areas. There are solutions to this but I figured I could try what I have before I buy. I bolted the vent tubes down and used a small pry bar to reshape them to fit the valley cover, and I dremeled some webbing off the bottom of the intake to clear the tube that crosses over. Pretty simple and works great!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586118907.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586118907.jpg

rahtidone 04-07-2020 11:38 AM

Would definitely like to contact you on your build
 
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586284112.jpg

The Pandemic has allowed me time to clear out my garage and evaluate my many projects (e30 turbo, Heally Sprite etc). I feel inspired to move forward on my 911 conversion that has been sitting for 14 years due starting a business, having kids etc. My son is now big enough to assist me so I am getting that itch again. Back then, I bought an 6.0L Ls1 crate motor on craigslist for $500 from a gentlemen clearing out his warehouse. I am in the process of making sure it has not seized up. I like the fact that you are taking your time, picking and choosing your purchases (not buying the full kits from Renegade or Toy Jet), and fabricating your own pieces when necessary. I myself don't have funds to just spend, especially with two kids getting close to going to college. Would be great to be able to discuss with you your process, ex I did not know that you could get only the cradle from Renegade without having to buy the whole kit, and I especially want to understand your radiator setup because i do not want to cut up the front of the car/gas tank. Looking forward to discussing your project.

911tracker85 04-08-2020 09:34 AM

interesting intake....

as I have been researching LS conversions I see similar things, reverse the intake.

is it even possible to not reverse the intake? from pics I can see how a stock deck lid would be in the way. but I have an extended DP deck lid, and suspect it may have room to leave the intake facing the rear....

thoughts? pics?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586363470.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586363470.jpg

VacantSky 04-09-2020 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911tracker85 (Post 10816071)
interesting intake....

as I have been researching LS conversions I see similar things, reverse the intake.

is it even possible to not reverse the intake? from pics I can see how a stock deck lid would be in the way. but I have an extended DP deck lid, and suspect it may have room to leave the intake facing the rear....

thoughts? pics?

It won’t work, it puts the throttle body into the rear crossmember that the lid latches into, and even if you modified that (I don’t know how you would) it leaves zero room for an intake and filter. It’s not hard at all to flip it around, you have to shave a rib on the intake manifold to clear the oil pressure sensor enough to put the connector on it. Aside from that it’s as simple as remove and reinstall and reroute some PCV hoses

Very nice car though, I love a slant nose!

VacantSky 04-09-2020 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rahtidone (Post 10814949)

The Pandemic has allowed me time to clear out my garage and evaluate my many projects (e30 turbo, Heally Sprite etc). I feel inspired to move forward on my 911 conversion that has been sitting for 14 years due starting a business, having kids etc. My son is now big enough to assist me so I am getting that itch again. Back then, I bought an 6.0L Ls1 crate motor on craigslist for $500 from a gentlemen clearing out his warehouse. I am in the process of making sure it has not seized up. I like the fact that you are taking your time, picking and choosing your purchases (not buying the full kits from Renegade or Toy Jet), and fabricating your own pieces when necessary. I myself don't have funds to just spend, especially with two kids getting close to going to college. Would be great to be able to discuss with you your process, ex I did not know that you could get only the cradle from Renegade without having to buy the whole kit, and I especially want to understand your radiator setup because i do not want to cut up the front of the car/gas tank. Looking forward to discussing your project.

Yeah if you message renegade and ask for just the cradle theyíll sell it individually, they can sell it raw without finish too to save a little extra. It still wasnít ďcheapĒ but it allowed me to explore all the parts by myself which is something I personally preferred, and that in turn allows you to chip away at it slowly rather than drop large sums of money at once. My car was driver (and driving) condition before I started this conversion so the sale of the 3.2 & 915 have funded everything so far. That includes a few things that had nothing to do with the conversion..!

That 6.0 you have there is likely an LQ9, it appears to be an iron block. Which will add a little weight to the rear of the car VS the aluminum block LS engines. From what Iíve read the aluminum block LS dressed for the 911 is ~30lbs lighter than the 3.2. And the iron block LS is typically 80lbs heavier than the aluminum block

I will be cutting the front of the car, but nothing past an exaggerated RSR oil cooler duct. Hopefully will be making some cuts during some quarantine time next week! Either that or refinishing the Fikse FM10ís I picked up..

911tracker85 04-10-2020 05:54 AM

thanks for the info. I see some people cut a hole in the firewall and extend the air cleaner to the inside of the car. so I wondered is you can do something in the back...

move along ... nothing more to see here ... move along...

VacantSky 04-11-2020 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911tracker85 (Post 10818621)
thanks for the info. I see some people cut a hole in the firewall and extend the air cleaner to the inside of the car. so I wondered is you can do something in the back...

move along ... nothing more to see here ... move along...

Haha! No problem! You definitely donít have to cut into cabin of the car to make it work at all!

911tracker85 04-11-2020 10:27 AM

yea there is the RH U and now have seen the cobra neck you found.

but got back to thinking about the intake to the rear of the car......:eek:

realized if I open up the back of the tail, it will be sucking hot exhaust air. so now toying with idea of creating a space on the back of the tail keeping the intake inside...

but sometimes the fantasy hits the reality...

pdlightning 04-12-2020 10:08 AM

Thanks
 
Vacantsky, I want to thank you and everyone else with the info and photos.

VacantSky 04-22-2020 02:54 PM

Not much going on recently, but I did get this rennline phone mount in the mail. But instead of using it for a phone Iíll be using it for the Terminator X handheld to monitor the engine on the fly. Itís very sturdy, So I would recommend it for a phone too!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587592242.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587592242.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587592242.jpg

VacantSky 05-23-2020 03:11 PM

Not much for updates that arenít LS specific. Just been slowly putting my fuse box in, and really procrastinating on cutting the tub for the radiator.. I need to just get it over with. I can smell the finish line and Iím slowing down for some odd reason.. anyways!

I originally opted to use the renegade throttle cable kit just because I wasnít too sure how I would connect a cable to the rod or bell crank and I was being a bit lazy.. turns out they out source it to another shop for fabrication and that shop is closed until COVID blows over. I waited for a few weeks and got impatient. I ended up getting a good idea of fixing something to the bell crank while I changed the bushings and decided to take a look at LS throttle cables. I settled on a Lokar 60Ē cut to fit cable, and a piece of scrap bar stock I had sitting in the garage gave itís life to become the bracket by the bell crank. If anyone can think for any reason itís not a good idea have my bracket mounted where it is, please let me know. But I think it should be okay. The nuts are torqued to spec, pics:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590271653.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590271653.jpg

I need to tweak the angle ever so slightly so the crank pulls the cable out straight but it should work perfectly! $80 for a quality cable and a piece of bar stock vs $169

911tracker85 05-24-2020 05:54 AM

thanks. I would prefer to use a cable for the throttle rather than drive-by-wire. guess I am just too old school.

dont like the DBY in my F150 or my wifes Audi. when you first dip into the throttle frequently it hesitates just a bit.

VacantSky 06-12-2020 07:08 PM

Curious if anyone can point me towards a clutch cable? Iím using a 930 trans in what is originally a 915 car, and my 915 clutch cable is too short. Seems there are several different part numbers for cables on the 930ís from my researching. Any help would be appreciated

Yan2947 06-12-2020 07:15 PM

I have a shortened 930 but haven't gotten to installing it yet and would have thought that the clutch cable was the same. Let me know what you find out.

VacantSky 06-13-2020 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yan2947 (Post 10903259)
I have a shortened 930 but haven't gotten to installing it yet and would have thought that the clutch cable was the same. Let me know what you find out.

Mine is shortened also, and I thought the same. I may just have to order a couple cables and use whichever one fits best. If you have a 930 trans carrier it’s not going to work as is either. I temporarily modified my 915 carrier until I can get a proper modification for the 930 carrier I picked up. The 930 carrier bolts into a different area on the torsion tube v the 915, it’s a little further EDIT: forward (not rearward, picture in follow up comment). Roughly an inch but I can’t remember exactly. Definitely no room to move the engine that far back. I saved this picture from a thread about a carrera getting a 930 drive train and this was how the 930 carrier needed to be modified

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592050331.jpg

The thread is titled “Frederick the great” I believe

911tracker85 06-13-2020 06:56 AM

are you using a rengade cradle? from talking to them you need to let them know what gearbox you use as the LS engine and the gearbox bolt to the cradle to get the correct fit.

but I have a LONG way to go....

VacantSky 06-13-2020 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911tracker85 (Post 10903576)
are you using a rengade cradle? from talking to them you need to let them know what gearbox you use as the LS engine and the gearbox bolt to the cradle to get the correct fit.

but I have a LONG way to go....

I am using the renegade cradle, but it doesnít bolt to the transmission. Only the engine and the trans bellhousing adaptor plate that bolts to the engine.


Here are the torsion tubes of a 930 and a 911.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592061225.jpg

You can see that the 930 mount points sit a little further forward than the Carrera. Meaning that when you use the 930 carrier on the 930 trans in a Carrera the holes wonít line up. I had to cut and modify my 915 carrier to fit the nose cone of the 930 trans and drill two holes in it so I could hang the engine and transmission seen here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592061499.jpg

You can see here how tight the clutch cable is against the throttle bell crank, even with it tight like this it doesnít reach the clutch arm

911tracker85 06-14-2020 06:58 AM

Quote:

I am using the renegade cradle, but it doesn’t bolt to the transmission. Only the engine and the trans bellhousing adaptor plate that bolts to the engine.
hmmmm.....

I specifically asked them about this as I have an SC tub and using a short BH 930 gearbox. I have the gearbox support from the 915. will be watching this thread for ideas.

VacantSky 06-14-2020 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911tracker85 (Post 10904814)
hmmmm.....

I specifically asked them about this as I have an SC tub and using a short BH 930 gearbox. I have the gearbox support from the 915. will be watching this thread for ideas.

Not my picture, but you can see here that the renegade cradle has nothing to do with mounting the transmission to the chassis

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592154881.jpg

It bolts to the stock LS engine mount holes, and ties to the adaptor plate. My 915 carrier is modified just so I can hang the drivetrain and get the car running but when itís fab time for the exhaust Iíll have the 930 carrier modified like the picture I borrowed and shared earlier

MrRPJ 06-14-2020 11:09 PM

Those are some massive spacers

911tracker85 06-15-2020 05:58 AM

interesting...

I had the impression the RH cradle bolted to the gearbox mounts in the front.

so where does it bolt?

VacantSky 06-15-2020 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911tracker85 (Post 10906069)
interesting...

I had the impression the RH cradle bolted to the gearbox mounts in the front.

so where does it bolt?

You may have read over it, but I mentioned it bolts to the stock engine mount locations on the LS, and the adaptor plate for the trans (again, not my pic but a good side profile of it)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592231458.jpg


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