![]() |
Silver no less. That thing is sweet. The only thing I can see from the limited photographs is possibly corrosion? next to the driver's side seat rail.
Before numbers are thrown out there and people get excited, I was do a very thorough check for rust under the floorpan bitumen and all the usual areas. Shouldn't take more than a couple hours - then for crying out loud rescue that thing and give it a pro detail to see where you stand. I agree with Matt - that thing is probably going to crank over. |
Spit, polish and drive as is if no major structural rust.
MattR |
too bad it no longer has its MFI components.
|
I does look like a survivor. $30K would be well bought, but if a quick flip would yield $40-45, that doesn't sound like a fair widow price to me. Move quickly. The word is out.
|
Quote:
|
If not rusted that car would sell in a heartbeat for 30k here.
So if you could buy it for that, your doing well and the widow does not have to fool with it. Any lower than that and you are awful close to "taking advantage of a widow" territory and you would be playing with yourself to think other wise. |
Quote:
|
The more concerned you get about making it right for the widow, the more disservice you’re doing to yourself. Bottom line is, it sounds like you really don’t know what kind of condition the car is in because it hasn’t been properly inspected. If someone, anyone, wants to sell a car without putting any effort into it at all, that’s been forgotten about and is sitting in a garage under layers of dust for the past 3 years without so much as being started...news alert...THEY AREN'T GETTING MARKET VALUE FOR IT, even if they’re a lovable old widow.
With all of the stress you are putting on making sure the widow is treated fairly, it seems like you’re too close to this seller to be the buyer. Either you’re going to over pay for it due to that, and then find something major wrong with it after you own it which makes it a loser for you, OR, you’ll under pay for it if it turns out it just needed some new fluids and a good detail, in which case you’ll always feel guilty about it. My advice, either walk away from this deal altogether, or completely separate the emotion from it and handle it like any other transaction. The latter is how this gets sold fairly to both parties, then there aren’t any hard feelings on either side. Inspect the car thoroughly, take all of the emotion out of it, and make her your best offer. That’s my two cents for what it’s worth. |
Looks similar to one I pulled a few weeks ago, how many silver 72's are there?
---Adam http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1533598427.jpg |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
MattR |
Quote:
|
In follow up investigation I think it’s a 71.
|
Now we are at $25k. You lost the 72 bump.
|
Quote:
Still a long hood and IF no rust, a deal at 25 -30K. |
As I mentioned, the car is a long ways from me so I initially got my information second hand. I'm getting better, but not definitive information now. As someone pointed out, the person who knew everything about the car isn't here to tell us about it. I think it is a 71. I am almost sure it is not a 73 and it does not appear to be a 72 from the photos. I will report as I receive additional information.
|
Personally, I would (almost) never buy a vintage car from Minnesota. Unless it was driven only on dry days and garaged every winter, it's going to have rust. It's just a matter of degree as to how much rust. And rust repairs on these cars are expen$ive.
If you don't do at least a cursory chassis inspection, you are playing Russian Roulette. |
Quote:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1533654875.jpg |
Oh, I see it's from Pennsylvania, not Minnesota.
Same answer re: rust. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:22 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website