Selling 77 911S would like help pricing

[crufone]

Hello all,
I am new to this forum and would like some advice on selling my 911S.

Mine is a plain Jane Coupe with no sunroof. Car has 82K original miles. No collision damage, 3 or 4 minor body dings. No rust, always garaged. Original paint was Oak Green and was repainted (Ho Hum job) perhaps twenty years ago. Paint has been keyed on drivers side and deck lid. Still looks OK at 30 feet.

Car drives and engine runs fine. Interior is tan leatherette and is nice. No weird noises from engine or transmission.

Issues; Fuel pump is going bad, I have new replacement. Crank up window pivots, broken, have new replacements. Major oil leak at front passenger side of engine after engine is off and sits overnight, valve cover gasket?, have new gaskets. Shifter linkage sloppy, have new bushings.

I have new tires installed (less than 2K )and recent alignment and starter battery. Perhaps $2k in new replacement parts (spares)and accessories.

This is a driving car. It has been maintained and is a decent original car. You can drive it home. If you want a show car it would be a straight forward restoration.

I paid $9K for this car in 1999 and have driven it only 4K miles. I have a new person in my life and not time enough for all my toys.

I wish to price fairly, and sell to a Porsche person and not a neighborhood kid who will wreck the car. I can either sell "as is" or complete the work listed in "issues" above.

I appreciate any thoughts from those on this forum to fairly market this nice but plain car.

Michael Connolly, Indianapolis, 317-253-7351

[GothingNC]

I looked at a pristine 77 911S last year for $12,000 but I passed since it had the thermal reactors re-installed and was starting to leak after a top-end rebuild that was perfomed at 60,000 miles. Car at the time had 75,000 miles.

It had a new clutch, tires, brakes, alternator. tan interior/green body, orignal paint with a few chips and the interior was like new and all the window rubber was in very good condition. Also had the chain tensioner upgraded along with the fender mounted oil cooler.

Was the motor rebuilt on yours?
If not, the leak could be from pulled studs.

The 77 year was never really popular and a so-so respray negativley affects the value.

IMHO I wouldn't pay more then 7 to 8k for the car since an SC in similar condition would go for 8-10k.

[crufone]

Thanks John,
I hope to hear from others from this forum. I don't believe that the motor has been rebuilt. What is leaking is oil. Compression seems fine and motor runs well. How would pulled studs cause an oil leak?
Michael

[GothingNC]

The studs start to pull out of the magnesium case causing the the cylinders and heads to separate from the case. This is caused by extreme heat from the thermal reactors which can also roast valve guides.

This can happen anywhere from 30,000 to 60,000 miles on the 2.7 motors. The motor can last a long time in the cooler climate of the Pacific North WWest or Canada

The cure is to have a top-end rebuild and case time-serts installed (If the case is not warped)

Just run a search on the 2.7 motors.

[crufone]

Thanks John,
I don't have any cylinder blowby. The leak doesn't appear until after the engine is shut down for some time. My thermal reactors and air pump were removed years ago and this car has the external oil cooler in the passenger front fender well. So if the studs have not pulled then what could be causing the oil leak?
Michael

[GothingNC]

The leak could be one of the seals by the oil cooler, T-Stat, Something else in the area or like you said, the valver cover gasket since the oil drains down into the lower valave covers.

I would clean it up, take a few photos and post the question in the Technical forums.

Sometimes a small leak makes a major mess dependjng on how the oil spreads.

Good luck.

[crufone]

Thanks for your response John,
I plan to clean up the engine then put the car up on jack stands run for a while then shut down and crawl under with a light and a mirror to see what I can see. I just don't know enough about these engines to know what is where and what tends to leak. I do know that the engine runs far to well to have a compression loss issue. The exhaust note is strong and uniform and the engine idles very nicely.
Michael

[racer]

I say "fix" all the issues that you can first. Otherwise, a buyer thinks, if he can't do the little stuff, then how are the major things? So. Fix what you can. Be fair. Have it detailed (again, this goes back to first impressions) and Ask what you paid for it. Good karma