Value on a 1999 996 with new engine?
 

New engine built by reputable shop and just broken in. 75,000 on the chassis. Chassis is very good shape.

$21 - 29k depending on records, carfax, cleanliness, etc.

I think that $21-29k is being very generous. I would say more like $18-24k. $24k would be for a very clean cab.

What was the shop? imho, a rebuild doesn't ADD value to the resale price. So, price the car as any 996.. look up KBB or NADA, add the options and mileage and you will be pretty close.

Does the rebuild come with a transferable warranty? (imho, the only value to a 996 with a replacement motor is the typical 2 year warranty they come with)

I'd guess closer to the $19-21K range for a coupe.

I have 1999 cab and bought the car from a dealership here in So Cal. I had the dealer install a new 3.4 and clutch (with all the factory upgrades) in the car due to (usual suspect RMS issue) in the original engine. The car now has 80k on the chassis and 30K on the engine and clutch. Overall the car is in good condition and really only needs the driver seat reupholstered, other than that it is a nice driver. I went to a local dealership to look at a Cayman S and they insulted me saying the last 1999 996 they took in on trade they bought for $8k. Unbelievable.

KBB and Edmunds values are both a joke and not worth the kilobits of ram they take up. Both companies had the trade in value at about $18K to $22K for a car in fair to good condition. When I confronted the dealer on this discrepancy was told that is what the market value is on these care. Needless to say the only way you would ever get even close to the KBB and/or Edmunds values is to sell it yourself through Pelicans or other auto sales stes. Never trade your car in to a Dealership unless that is your only option.

There is no reason that the early 996 cars should be so malined. Overall I have been very pleased with the performance of my car and look forward to getting the seat done, adding a aero kit, and adding a roll/harness bar to freshen the car up. Since it is not worth anything to anyone but the owners. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302641114.jpg

I just brought home 1999 996 coupe, very basic, no traction control or any of the bells & whistles. Probably just the base stereo, it does have a sunroof.

It needs some TLC on the paint etc, had to put a set of tires on it, seats really need to be recovered, bad splits in the passenger seat. But all in all seems pretty solid, everything works well. It is an odd color combo, dark blue exterior & savana beige interior.

It has 126,000 total miles and 36,000 on a factoy reman engine, paid $15,500

GONE!!!!


I have a '99 C2 with a newly rebuilt motor for $22500 obo.

75k miles on the car 1500 miles on the engine.

Includes LN Engineering IMSR, ARP Rod Bolts, LNE Billet IMS Tensioner Blade, LNE Low Temp, Billet Oil Drive, New Rings, Bearings, Gaskets and Seals, Thermostat, new water pump, RMS, AOS, belt,
plugs, paks, brakes, tires, battery.

Block was magnafluxed and Cylinders were coated with Nikisil
and Honed to factory specs.
New rings, bearings.
Heads were pressure tested and magnafluxed.
Complete valve job by Brooks Elliott.

4 month warranty on engine.

Clean inside, decent exterior, comparable with mileage. Wheels completely refinished.

contact me at mike@lonestarrpm.com

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304387749.jpg

these cars are selling for around 16k-24k depending on condition and mileage , I was in the market for about a year before I pulled the trigger , but I ended up with a 996 TT I was afraid of the IMS and RMS issue

I am a complete newb to this site and am considering a 996 in the very near future. What does "IMS and RMS" mean as issues?

Thanks for the info..


Bill

sold a '99 with 62.5k miles, excellent condition, silver, black supple leather, limited slip, 4th RMS with new clutch (no leaks), RoW M030, memory seats, sport classics II, CD changer, wired for remote V1 plus other extras. Owned by adult 20 yr pca member. Got $21k and that was tough to get

Bill
Im sure RMS is the rear main seal. Not sure what IMS? Life was way better before twitter. Only pilots used acronyms for everything.


jcl

Thank you, and I completely agree

RMS = rear main seal. It's not a big deal. Porsche went through 4 or 5 designs before settling on the latest. It's not a huge deal to replace, but there are some shop hours involved. Downside of RMS failure is a drip of oil on the garage floor. We used to consider that "charming."

IMS = intermediate shaft. This is a big deal. It's actually the IMS bearing that fails. And when it does, timing chains tend to slip and destruction ensues. There are some aftermarket intermediate shaft bearing setups that are supposed to be superior, but in truth, IMS failures are fairly rare though catastrophic when they occur. Enough so that a mechanical warranty might be worth the expense.

Thank you! That really helps.