68 911T best value improvement?

[georgyporshy]

I’m trying to get the best value from my restoration of a 1968 911T (Euro) built 10/67 and registered as a ’67. Keep it original, nearly original, upgrade it? This model was the cheapest, lowest horsepower early 911 (110hp), but was the basis for the 911S/T racing cars. I’ve almost completed the bodywork, mainly under chassis rust repair, and now need to address the original engine, suspension and brakes.

The question is – What is the best route to maximize the return on my investment? By this I mean market value of the completed car compared with money spent, assuming I do most of the work. I do have a good set of 2.2E P&Cs, but am thinking a good used 3.0 on webers would deliver more bang for a similar cost to rebuilding the 2.0 either stock or improved. Should I go with an SC front suspension for the better brakes? What else should I change?

I don’t intend to track the car, and am far more interested in driving than showing. That said, I’ll probably only keep it for a while then sell for my next bright idea. I believe the SWB cars are doing well in Europe right now, probably for rally use, but what mods are permitted? What is a good #2 car worth?

[techweenie]

Keep it original. Any changes will require a buyer who wanted those specific changes, and that narrows the market.

[Macroni]

Dead stock.....

[carjmark]

Always stock; faster, better, prettier doesn't mean more valuable.

[Matt Monson]

Another with the keep it stock. I sold my '68 T (which is not a car that was ever sold in the States and was made in very low numbers) for quite a bit more than you see 69-71 T's sell for. The low power bare bones trim of it is actually part of what makes it what it is. By all means don't change the engine out unless you plan to keep the stock engine on a pallet in the corner to sell with the car some day.

[BK911]

If it were me, I would put the original engine on a pallet and drop in a good used 3.0.

All else would be bone stock.

[georgyporshy]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm surprised this model's value might be more than I thought if I keep it stock. Any ideas on a value range? Assume a #2 car with excellent mechanicals (not there yet, a work in progress).

[ibmiked]

Two things:

1. Is the block aluminum or magnesium (the factory transitioned mid '68). An aluminum block is very desirable because you can build a 300+hp motor which you can't do from magnesium. If the motor number is correct, building it up to a 2.2 or greater displacement should have no ill effect on the cars perceived value as 'original'.

2. Neinelfer makes direct bolt-on calipers to give you SC quality font brakes. You do need to upgrade to later hubs to run vented rotors, but that is much less severe (value-wise) compared to an SC suspension replacement.

Cheers and good luck,
Mike

[racer]

Maximize value? stock.. the closer to 100% original, the better.

Maximize enjoyment of ownership? R or ST build

[Wiese]

Keep it stock! There are enough cars out there to get hot rodded, but this one is a nice longhood that looks unmolested.