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85 911 qustions

I am looking at an 85 911 to purchase. I drove it and noticed two issue:
1)some resistance shifting from 1st to 2nd and in particular downshifting from 3rd to second and second to third. I am thinking it is not the clutch, but the synchros?
any ideas on costs here?
2)the steering wheel column has a lot of play. When I hold the wheel, i can move it about half an inch up and down. Any ideas?

Engine seems smooth and strong. Tracks straight, no rattles. NO where to do a PPI without driving it a couple of hours.

It has some dash stitching coming undone and some other interior issues. But it comes with sport seats, and carrera tail.

thanks for the support.
aircool

Old 07-25-2012, 12:40 PM
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1) Sounds like synchros if 4th and 5th shift smoothly, adjustment and new bushings might help.
2) Common problem and cheap, easy fix.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:09 PM
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Best case scenario is $75 in parts and 2 hours of diy labor. I bought an 85 and those were the 2 major flaws upon purchase. Still tolerating the shifting, but installed steering column bushing first weekend
I find excuses to go for a ride every time the sun is out.
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aircool View Post
I am looking at an 85 911 to purchase. I drove it and noticed two issue:
1)some resistance shifting from 1st to 2nd and in particular downshifting from 3rd to second and second to third. I am thinking it is not the clutch, but the synchros?
any ideas on costs here?
2)the steering wheel column has a lot of play. When I hold the wheel, i can move it about half an inch up and down. Any ideas?

Engine seems smooth and strong. Tracks straight, no rattles. NO where to do a PPI without driving it a couple of hours.

It has some dash stitching coming undone and some other interior issues. But it comes with sport seats, and carrera tail.

thanks for the support.
aircool
Without a thorough PPI by an experienced shop, I'd not jump unless the documentation is excellent. All kinds of horrible stuff can get passed off as good - and the things you are talking about can be reasonably fixed at home, cheaply (bushing and shift coupler, if it is the coupler). I'd be worried that if these easy things are not taken care of, what about the big things?

Without a LOT more info, I can't even hazard a good guess.
Old 07-26-2012, 07:20 PM
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I am in the market as well.

If you can't get a PPI done, I'd highly recommend you call a reputable shop and have them talk you through what to look at in exchange for their hourly rate. Also, i wouldn't buy the car without getting underneath it to check for rust, oil leaks, crushed oil lines, check tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc. You can price out a bunch of replacement parts from our host and deduct them from the seller's asking price if they need to be replaced. Are you planning to do your own work?

Without a shop or the right equipment, you won't be able to do a leakdown test. I've never seen a car fail a leakdown test that wasn't experiencing drivability problems, so if the car is strong throughout the RPM range under load (check 4th or 5th gear accelerating uphill on the highway), you're probably ok...of course YMMV.

Without a PPI you're increasing the chances you'll need some type of significant surprise repair, so your purchase price should reflect that possibility. Basically: price your risk into the deal.

If you take a million pics and post them here you'll get opinions as well (for what they're worth).

Good luck!

Rich
Old 07-27-2012, 04:42 AM
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George is right, all you need to fix the loose column is a bushing. I would be a little concerned about the shifting issue. Best case scenario it would be to change the coupler. Worst case you would need a rebuild. If your just having resistance shifting it's pretty normal for a 915, If it's grinding then you have a problem. 915s take a bit of getting used to. Most people go from driving modern day cars to a 915 feel it knotchy and you can never force into gear. It will go into gear when it good and ready.
Sport seats plus, Carrera tail plus.
There are pretty qualified members on this site that can give you at least a second opinion depending on location of the car.
Or leave a deposit and drive the couple of hours for peace of mind.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:53 PM
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Just to make full disclosure, my loose steering column was more than just the bushing. I had to remove the tach and tighten the bolts that actually hold the column up to the dash. Cost $0. The steering wheel is not a big deal thanks to a fellow Pelican's designed part available from our host.

The trans really could be much more complicated than coupling bushing (couplerwhisperer.com), but I bought without a PPI after making sure I was getting a good price and knowing I had the budget to do an engine drop and trans rebuild if it was worse than I expected.

When all said and done, I got a quality car at a very fair price. Make sure if you buy without a ppi, you are ready to diy or have funds to enjoy your new toy. Otherwise it ends up as someone else's barn find in 15 years while it sits in disrepair.
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:08 AM
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We bought an '85 a year and a half ago, with a similar shifting 'experience'. However, once the tranny is warm most of that experience goes away. I just have to remember to not down shift into first until tranny is warm. Also have the older manual sports seats, keeps you intact, mostly, while on the track. And, they are lower in the seat than the electric ones. I'm tall.
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:59 AM
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85 911 questions

I appreciate all the advice and realize that a PPI is the best way to go. Unfortunately, I have found are limited "good" shops here in Utah. I have a "vacation" home here and thought it would be nice to have a canyon cruiser. At any rate, I bought the car, at a very good price. (Going against everything a smart buyer would do, no PPI, and only one receipt for work done in the past four years). I drove the car 2 and half hours from northern Utah to my home and it tracked well, drove great. All the gauges read great. The paint looks original and is mint. The sport seats felt good, only minimal wear on drivers, but no holes. Carfax was clean. The PO had it for four years and did a bunch of maintenance on it when he bought it, and put new tires on it. He drove it 5k in four years. According to the receipt, the shop he took it to replaced the hood struts, and installed a bushing kit on the shifter, among a bunch of other things, including a 150K service. Neither the hood nor trunk struts are working well. Makes me doubt the shop's capability. Any suggestions on struts?? After shifting , the resistance in first and second downshifts may be my inexperience with a 915. My last 911 was a 90 964, I sold about 8 years ago. I'll post some pics. When I got home my wife, who had been skeptical, asked to drive it and loved it so I got the thumbs up. My problem now is I have 9 nines cars in 3 different countries. I need to consolidate. Anyway, I had to get back on the road and left the 911 in the hands of my wife and 17 year old son, who immediately wanted lessons on manual shifting. I may not have a car when I get back.
Anyone know of a decent Porsche wrench in Utah county, Utah, please let me know.
thanks again for the comments.
Old 07-29-2012, 09:52 AM
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Good luck with your new purchase!

Try posting on the technical forum or off topic to find a wrench in Utah.

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Old 07-29-2012, 02:40 PM
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