1987 Carrera Price Check
 

Looking to add a 1987 Carrera with 60k mi. Body, Interior, and transmission in great shape. 45 psi on no. 6 cylinder. No leakdown done yet and AC not working (surprise). http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1371095970.jpg

That's really low on #6. If it's a head problem, well, that's lucky. $15-18k.

Piston/cylinder problem? $8-10k. Maybe a little more if everything else is in top shape.

Not enough info for a full evaluation, but I'll just throw those numbers out for folks to chew on. Hey, you could always buy it, then flip it.

Good one silber.

Buy it for 18 and leave out the info about the compression on ebay and make a flip for 30k. Jeez......but somebody would probably do it.

Agree on the too little info part.

Needs a PPI....

I agree with Silber's estimates. That's awfully low compression, which means needing some extent of a rebuild, either top end or full rebuild. I would assume the worst and deduct $10K from the price for it.

additional information
 

At cold start no smoke. No smoke noticed at all. No significant pulse or noise when oil filler cap removed (top end issue?) Power seems lacking , but perhaps I'm too used to the pull from my 996 turbo. However, I think this car should pull strong out of corners if firing on all 6.
Otherwise a very clean car that presents well.

Fred

how much and where

That's what Im asking.
West coast.

I bought my 88 a few years ago for a fair amount less than $15K with 90K miles and a poor running engine. All else was in great shape. Turned out to be bad valves so they were replaced along with guides and exhaust studs and the usual "while I'm in there" stuff. Now I have a great running Porsche that I love to drive for very reasonable money. Maybe I was lucky.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1371423514.jpg

Odd for an engine with that few miles to have a cylinder that low. How confident are you that the miles are accurate?

With that sort of mileage what we sometimes see is a car that was parked for years and has crud built up on the backside of a valve.

Some hard running for a tank of gas can break up the crud. A retest would potentially have it come back up to where it should be.

+1 On the above. Or you could do a top end de-carbonizer. Its the stuff made by GM/ ac delco. You slowly pour it into the intake while a helper is holding a high idle of say 2000 rpm. Just do not let the engine die right away. Pour 1/2 pint into a hot engine then let it die. Caution: I advise the use of a respirator. Let sit for 1/2 hour and drive the snot out of it thereafter for a good while. It will smoke profusely for the first 5- 10 miles but in the end most of the build up will be blown out the tailpipe.
I know what some are thinking. Thats total Bull! However, do not judge until you try.
Good Luck

So did you buy the car or will you let me know where it is so I can?