Going to look at a 72 T
 

One of my buddies has a client that owns a 1972 911 T....He asked me to help him sell it.

The word I got is he has owned the car for over 20 years. He stopped using it several years ago and it’s been parked in his garage since then un touched. About 70k miles claimed to be actual miles. I believe he has a reasonable amount of service records to verify the miles. Orange with black coupe is what I am told. There is nothing particularly remarkable about it. Supposed to be in nice driver shape aside from not being used in a few years.

From what I have learned about the car I believe I can get it at least running and able to move under its own power pretty easily. Which just means on a trailer and to my place.

My knowledge of the markets in air cooled cars does not extend to long hoods. I know the basics between the models and I realize the 72 is a one year wonder with the oil door. I also know to be on the hunt for rust being pre galvanized.

My questions are these:

Is there anything in particular I need to be very careful to check?

Are there any trim pieces that are really hard to replace that I need to make sure it has with it?

Are there any mechanical parts that are of particular note which are hard to replace or insanely expensive?

What’s a reasonable price range for one, that’s a solid driver after I sort the thing out?

What’s a reasonable range for one that may need a couple few grand in "stuff" just to get it road worthy?




I don’t have photos. I hope to see the car this weekend. I am just looking for a ball park or some opinions.

Thanks

Yes -- that no one gets there before you do, and you brought your wallet with you.

For actual substantive commentary, I'm waiting to see what techweenie has to say....

Ping TW. He's a '72 expert.

Yea I was going to PM TW but I figured when he had a moment he'd find this thread.

The cars not out on the open market so I am not worried about it getting sold.

Interested as well, particularly the price range, what does the collective wisdom think it's worth?

If this was originally a US market car it should have mechanical fuel injection. Very expensive to replace if not present. It would be helpful if you can obtain an accurate CoA (easier said than done unfortunately). The most important 'part' to have as original is the engine case itself. Big hit in value if not original. Also if it came with sport seats when new those are expensive to replace if not presently in the car.

Look forward to seeing the photos when you have them.

If an original orange 72 coupe, you would have one of the more desirable cars on the market. I've seen more than a few "updated" to remove the unique 72 oil system, so that is numero uno. Then obvious stuff like bumper "updates," flares and other unwelcome mods.

It was common practice to "upgrade" seats, dash, etc.

Bottom line is that you're looking for originality. 72s had chrome horn grilles and bright lens trim; bright windshield and door trim. Seats, if stock had black hinges. The dash, if stock, had a grille in the center but no air vent facing the interior. Door pockets often 'disappeared' on these cars as they did on the other 69-73 cars so equipped.

The stock 72 shifter looked like a 71 and earlier shifter, not like the 73 and later. All US delivered cars were MFI, but many ROW cars had Zenith carbs -denoted by the '5' in the 4th position on the VIN. All the dash gauges had silver 'buttons' in the centers.

Feel free to ping me about any details that are not mentioned or unclear. I've had a buttload of 72s and my help is (usually) free.

Opinions on the current market value?

Techweenie has awesome 72 info. I need to record his comments to better my own 72.. Thx

72's are awesome, but if you ever consider the 1973.5T its unique all unto itself!! It shares 1974 parts, has the only fuel tank made specifically for the year (full tire spare), the crazy first CIS with no thermotime switch, those bumperettes, first WUR, injectors installed directly into the cylinders not intake manifolds, etc, etc, etc.......:eek: Just a heads up for 73.5T lookers.

Bob
1973.5T in Sepia of course:cool:

what is the best way to start up a 911 motor that has not run for 10 years ?

how do you clean out the old fuel and gunk in the tank and lines ?

I cannot say anything about how to get a 10 year old engine running that's been idle all those years, but I can speak about the fuel tank form experience.

The tank in the 1972 will not have the traditional bakelite swirlpot and baffles that started with the first CIS car (1973.5T) and forward. Looking at the cost of aftermarket replacements it would be more cost effective to replace it, but seal and coat the outside of the tank for a factory look (Wurth Gray rubberized sealant). That's the easy way (figure $300 to $400). If you decided to refurbish a tank that probably is heavily rusted inside from ten years of retaining fuel you can drain, remove, have "boiled" at a radiator shop and coat internally with POR tank restoration products, Redcote or other interior coatings and hope for the best! Its a no brainer that you will have to replace the old fuel lines with new.

What is the going price on a nice, well put together, no rust, restored 1972 911T?

That is a tough question to answer accurately. The cars are so different from each other, there is so few to really chose from and the market is changing so fast that it is not useful to use sales that are over 6 months old.
I did a search for "1972 911T" in the 'cars for sale' here and a few other places and there are asking prices all over the place. 45K sort of kind of looks like the bottom and over a 100K is not uncommon.
I think it really depends on a particular cars level of restoration and how it was marketed, the price could vary $10,000's
The market has not stabilized in my view point to be able to say with confidence "a nice, well put together, no rust, restored 1972 911T sells for ------"

This sounds right.

The floor on any pre-74 car is right about $40-50k if they are in solid, drivable condition. 72s seem to bring more money. And if truly rust free (original or bodywork fully and properly restored) you are looking at 11-20k more.

Add 30-50% for Es, and double for S.

those are #4 to #3 cars.

For legit #1 and #2 car, who knows.

Well the kid who's client this was and who was setting up the deal got let go by us so this car is all but untouchable for me now. Sorry but thanks for the input.