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Broken Clutch, Friction Plate Snapped!

Hello,

I was unable to get to this for a little bit cause i stripped out one of the clutch bolts. I drilled it out finally and found this wonderful site. I just replaced this thing 15,000 miles ago, as you can tell there is very little wear on the friction plate. What a pain to drop the entire rear suspension, tranny, and torque tube and then find that the thing i replaced last year broke! It could be the new power and the excessive right foot, but it should be able to handle the new mods. Maybe im just too rough on it... Any suggestions on how to keep this from happening again without making me lift off the gas?

WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON HERE!

Pictures of Broken Clutch






What the HECK HAPPEND!

Anyway to get replace the friction plates with something of higher friction and strength? Doubtful... but what ya think? You would have to rivit it on there.

Pictures of Broken Clutch

I dont know why but with blogger you have to have cached the picture once, been to the blog and then you can see them hence forth.


Last edited by cchyper; 11-07-2006 at 10:58 PM..
Old 11-07-2006, 06:29 PM
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Never heard of dropping the rear suspension to take out a clutch.

Was there supposed to be a picture?
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Old 11-07-2006, 06:57 PM
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Sorry you have to check out the blog

Pictures of Broken Clutch
Pictures of Broken Clutch
Pictures of Broken Clutch
Pictures of Broken Clutch
Pictures of Broken Clutch

then you can see them on the thread.

- c
Old 11-07-2006, 11:01 PM
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Sachs Puck Clutch...
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Old 11-08-2006, 07:30 AM
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Time to upgrade your clutch. If that thing is still under warranty, send it back for a replacement.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:17 AM
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hyper, i'm interested in your project. What mods did you use to have enough power capable of breaking the friction plate?
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:40 AM
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Faulty disc or uneven pressure plate/flywheel.

Lets just say there are other week spots that will sheer apart long before the disc ever will.
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Old 11-08-2006, 10:54 AM
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It happens sometimes. I've seen both a shot rubber center, and broken friction surface. Get the spring centered clutch kit.

You don't need to drop the rear suspension. Just diconnect the axles from the transaxle and hang them from wires, leaving the axles connected to the hubs. Then drop the tranny, slide the driveshaft back and you'll have access to the clutch. It's a retarded system when you work on it, but when you're not changing the clutch it's a good system. Allows for a narrow easy to spin driveshaft with no U-joints. I dunno, everyone hates it but they made it this way for a reason.
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Old 11-10-2006, 10:17 PM
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I hope my clutch is as easy to change out as you explain it. As near as I can tell I will need to drop the exhaust, drop tranny and then slide it back , drop bell housing and access flywheel. Once it is all out i can get the flywheel resurfaced and ready for all new parts.
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:09 AM
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He took out the rear suspension because he is putting in new torsion bars at the same time.
I've found it easier to take out the complete rear suspension then take out the trans and torque tube as a unit. This way you have much more room to work on the clutch and you have an opportunity to cleans all the parts.

Old 11-12-2006, 09:14 AM
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