1989 911 cab

[chrisf]

1989 cab. 89,600 miles. White with black top. Wine/maroon interior. $30K, OBO. no trades, thanks.

contact me at [email protected] and we can go from there.

First things first: i had a minor accident with the car in November 2016. One morning on the way to work another driver turned left in front of me. I was able to brake hard and swerve left, but it was not enough. It was about a 15mph impact. Not much damage. Car still drove fine and the cooler was not leaking. No effect of the steering or suspension. It was at that point I realized that car had previous damage in exactly the same spot. The car was professionally repaired in February of 2017, and the repair looks great. I’ll post pics and additional details below.

This car is perfect for someone who can DIY while driving a wonderful late G50 911. Probably not of interest for someone looking to acquire a car, have someone else work on it, and turn around and flip for a profit. Likewise, if you are looking for that top level car as a concourse car or investment, and would rely on outsourcing to bring this one to spec, spend the money upfront and buy that level of car.

But…..someone who is willing to budget and plan over the course of a few to five years and tackle a project or two at a time? Well, they’ll be driving a fantastic car that could be/will be one of those top level cars with a little work and dedication.

This car is a great driving, great looking 911. When I sit back and look at it in my drive way, I can‘t help but say to myself it is gorgeous.

The engine runs great, has great torque at low RPM, and revs strongly/smoothly all the way to red line. No stumble or hesitation. Occasional brief period of smoke upon start up and the occasional puff or two while idling at a red light. But apparently, no smoke on decel. When I got the car, with about 87K miles, I changed the oil and filter. I have just this past weekend, done another fluid/filter change. I checked the oil level before I drained it, and it seemed to consume maybe half a quart or so. Level on the dip stick was just below the middle. Nowhere near low level.

Oh, and the engine and trans are dry! No leaking! Running BP 20W50.

Same maintenance done on the trans. Changed the fluid when I first got the car. After 2500 miles, drained again and filled with Swepco. Trans shifts great with no grinding or any odd behavior. I replaced all shifter bushings, so the shifter is nice and tight. Clutch is great, no slipping.

The car drives/rides great. Feels like it has been milled out of a solid block of Porsche. Very enjoyable ride while briskly cruising down your favorite country road. However, start pushing the car to its upper limits, and it’s apparent that it could use new shocks to reach its full potential. But again, very nice and enjoyable ride as is. The suspension bushing and other components feel great: nice and tight with no clunking or shifting or other funny business. Steering is tight and responsive with a nice “heavy” feel to the wheel.

Doors open close as they should. Windows work well. Both mirrors work. All the controls work as they should. Hey, the AC works! And it blows pretty cold air too. I was impressed. All the fans, and auto heater work! And the cruise works.

The power top works pretty well too. The transmission on the driver’s side has a broken mounting tab. I was watching it work with the little rear interior panel off. When the top is first beginning to open, it wants to twist a little bit (the trans, not the top). So, when the top first begins to open, it’s best to push up to give it a little assistance. This helps with the trans condition. I found a used one from a fellow pelican for about a $100 bucks I think, but I never got around to replacing it as other projects kept coming up around the house, etc….so, the buyer should add that to the list of things to do. But, again, I’ve been using the top almost every weekend for a while now, and with a little assistance it works fine. Over all the top material and rear plastic window are in great shape.

After market JVC stereo works, but I think the front MB quartz speakers are a little blown.

Wooden floor boards are deteriorated quite a bit and will eventually need to be replaced. But as most owners of G body and early 911s know, keep them covered with the carpets, and all but the absolutely worst ones seem fine. The carpet and carpet pieces are pretty thin, but really don’t look too bad. I have simply just vacuumed them. Maybe a good shampooing might make them look a little better, but they are pretty thin, as is the rest of the carpet. Over all, considering the condition I found the car in (check this thread I started when I first got the car:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/930849-whitey.html ) the interior looks pretty darn good.

Seats were a little dirty/moldy and have cleaned up nicely. I have been conditioning them with obenhauf’s, and they have responded well. The leather is soft, and the foam is pretty firm. Typical wear for 30 year old seats. But no rips of tears or overly thin spots. Open the car after it’s been closed for a few hours, and it still has that original 911 smell!

Here is a list of what I have done to the car to prepare it for it’s next owner:

October 2016 approx 87,000 miles

• Oil & filter change
• Trans fluid change
• Rebuilt calipers
• New pads/wear sensors/hardware
• New rotors
• Flush & bled brake system
• New fan belt
• Air filter
• Rebuilt shifter
• Replace wheels with 7” fuchs (front) & 9” Euromeister (rear).

June 2017 approx 89,300 miles

• Rebuilt CV joints, new boots
• Replaced door sills
• Removed/replaced intake
• Powder coat on manifold/fan/fan housing
• New insulator blocks & intake gaskets
• Triangle of death gaskets replaces
• New sound pad
• Rebuilt all fuel lines
• New fuel filter
• New fuel injector O-rings
• Oil & filter change
• Valve adjust
• Valve cover gaskets
• Trans fluid change
• Replaced upper breather hose
• New plugs
• New distributor cap
• Reset reference sensors on flywheel
• Brake bleed
• New oil cooler fan & thermostat

As it sits the car is ready for many years of enjoyable driving for its new owner. I would not hesitate to drive this car across the country. In fact....I would imagine the new owner could do just that, then turn right around and drive all the way back to Chattanooga, just to tell me how much they love their new cab!

Here are some pics of the car taken this past weekend:

[chrisf]

[chrisf]

[chrisf]

[chrisf]

[chrisf]

[chrisf]

maybe hard to see in the pics below, but some of the panel fasteners are missing and the plastic trim pieces for the rear seats belts are cracked/missing.





The pics below show the cracks in the dash



in this pic below, some wear on the dash side of the steering can be seen. same condition on the front side of the shifter knob.

[chrisf]

I'll be adding info and additional pictures shortly. thanks.

[chrisf]

here are pictures taken the morning of the wreck, 11-14-16 if I recall correctly. Car drove fine. In fact, I had prepared the car for a 3 week long, 800 mile round trip and was leaving the morning after this happened. Came home form work that afternoon, got the hammers & dollies out, and hammered the fender into shape. Took the undamaged H5 bulb, and encased it in mason jar and used baling wire to suspend it in the empty head light bucket. I wasn't going to let some careless, inattentive driver ruin my trip thru the mountains of east Tennessee/western NC!

[chrisf]

I am trying to find the pics I took of my fender & head light patch, but can't seem to find them at the moment.

I was thinking of fixing myself, but had way to much going on at the time. I had Advanced Collision do the repair.

they are a Porsche approved/certified repair center: http://www.advancedcollision.org/certifications. Cool fact, the owner is currently leading the Porsche GT4 clubsport series in the East!

[chrisf]

The end of May/June, I pulled the intake off. I had the manifolds cleaned and powder coated, as well as the fan & shroud. Replaced all the fuel lines, as well as the injector O-rings. Reassembled with new gasket/insulator blocks. Replaced the "triangle of death" gaskets/seals. Replaced the upper breather hose (original was hard and cracking). It was at this time I adjusted the valves, replaced the plugs & distributor cap, etc...

[chrisf]

[chrisf]

[chrisf]

front trunk area has/is developing surface rust. present down in front of the tank, over by the battery box, corner of tank and above the smuggler's box, and behind the vent system. This will eventually need to be aggressively addressed by the next owner, but for now it has been sufficiently neutralized. I would say if the new owner kept an eye on it, it will go several more years with no problem.

first series of pics show the as found condition:





in the two pics below, you can see where I was pulling the rubber coating back as much as I could. I do not believe the rust goes further than this

[chrisf]

next series of pics show the results of wiring brushing the rust affected areas:

[chrisf]

I used a SEM rust converter product on the rust areas. Reacts with the rust and converts to a pretty darn durable surface:













I left all the treated areas (except for the smuggler's box lid, I painted it white for the fun of it) unpainted/bare so that the rust conditions can easily be monitored by the new owner.



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[chrisf]

[chrisf]

bump

[chrisf]

bump. new asking price of $33K

[chrisf]

bump.