Oil Quantity Light/Charging Light

[Rainman66]

Hi,

I can't get the oil quantity light to go out. I pulled the sending unit and checked it with a meter and it seems to work ok. In the event that the unit was bad, I replaced it with another one and the light still will not go out. I tried jumping the plug, like you can on the other sensors, still no luck. Also the charging indicator light will not come on when the ignition it switch on. Any thought out there on these two unrelated problems. Thanks


1984 325e
1986 325

Doug

[jp.makofske]

Did you ever get this fixed? I have a similar problem with my 85 325e.
I wired in a set of gauges (oil temp, pressure and voltmeter) and have a scad of problems since. Let me know-I'd like to discuss my problem with you.

Jim M

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Hmm, did you reset the unit using the tool, or did you jumper the terminals? This may also have something to do with the oil level sensor wiring or it could be the service interval board batteries as well.

[jp.makofske]

Jared,

I used the commercially made tool to reset; have driven about 250 miles since, all green, no apparent problems.

I replaced both batteries in the SI board. They are new style, non rechargeable, 3 V types. Incidentally, the old ones were installed in 1990 and still had 2.7 volts. Appears OK

Jim

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Did you check the wiring to the oil level sensor? On my car I found that the wires had been cracked and broken. I had to re-insulate them.

[jp.makofske]

No but will do so when I get home. I noticed the tech book has a photo of a 3 wire sensor, but mine has 2. It has a plug similar to the one on the oxygen sensor (a polarized plug).

Jim

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Hmm. let us know what you find out.

[Rainman66]

I still have not corrected the problem, I'm kinda driving around it. My car was in the shop, transmission problems, and just got it back. Will continue to search out the problem.

Doug

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Just make sure you have plenty of oil in there in the interim!

[rjp325i]

Since your alternator light is not coming on when you turn the key on, there may be a simple explanation. I do not know if your car falls into this category but I'll mention it to you anyway. On models built up to late 1986, a burned out alternator warning light bulb will prevent the alternator from charging. On late '86 and later models, a resistor is wired in parallel with the alternator warning light. This will allow current to reach the alternator during starting when the warning light bulb is burned out. Did you check the light bulb? You could be running on just the battery if this is the case. One other thing. On my old '85 I had the small blue wire to the alternator corrode thru and cause my alt light not to come on when I turned the key on without starting. This eventually resulted in a dead battery once the battery discharged.

[jp.makofske]

Problem: no oil pressure or alt lights on dash, and the oil level indicator would not go out.


I figured it out! On the driver's side, in the engine compartment, next to the fuse box (against firewall) is an "engine wire junction cable" that is outboard of the fuse box (in a slot in the side). This got corroded and four of the 15 or so wires were not connecting. I jumpered them from one side of the plug to the other side, bypassing the plug.

In Sept 99 I noted that I unplugged these, cleaned with tuner cleaner type stuff, unplugged and put each fuse in and out, and did the same for the relays in the fusebox. All this corrosion happened in the last 4 years.

On the pin out of this harness plug, the oil level static and dynamic was not connecting, as was the alt light and oil pressure light. As I moved the wire plug, the lights would come on intermittently. They all work like champs now.

I have heard that the mid 80's 3 Series are known for electrical problems.

Thanks, Jared, and all who emailed in.

Jim M