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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 603
Garage
Replacing struts on an iX (part II)

(con't)

10. jack up under tie rod BJ and break loose. (same as you did for CA BJ).



knocking BJ out (leave nut on thread to prevent damage to threads) Can use pickle fork and hammer if necessary. (puller is on rotor temporarily in picture)

*WARNING* this CAN mushroom the threads on the BJ … requiring repair or replacement. A better way to loosen this BJ is to bang on the side of the arm / knuckle.



11. spin off axle nut.

12. back off 3 nuts holding strut in tower (from engine bay)

13. place 6+" 3-jaw puller around hub and push axle half shaft through hub. (pull loosened strut out to get clearance).

getting ready to attache 3-jaw - note: axle already pushed 1/3 way out.



3-jaw attached

*WARNING* removing the axle half-shaft this way CAN damage the F wheel bearing. The bearings are sealed and if the splines of the shaft are REALLY stuck inside the stub axle ... the two inner race bearing halves will separate when pulled using the puller. There is a circlip that holds the outer race [only] of the bearing in the strut housing. The inner race will move OUT with the stub axle / hub if the puller pulls it out rather than pushing the half-shaft through.



14. properly suspend axle half-shaft [use wire or a bungee]

15. remove 3 nuts from top of strut and get ready to catch (it's heavy) strut assembly.

16. remove complete strut assembly.



have another drink

17. attach spring compressors (SC) to spring as close to the top and bottom of the spring as you can.

18. compress SCs equally on both sides until tension is removed from upper strut bearing and spring hat.

19. IF you have an air compressor [or electric impact wrench] buzz off strut nut (19mm) and remove washer below it. Remove strut bearing (replace with new), washer, and spring hat (replace any / all components if needed). do NOT re-use strut nut. (if nut won't buzz off there is another method that I can post later).

BE CAREFUL HERE!!! COMPRESSED SPRING IS LIKE A LOADED GUN!!!

20. remove compressed spring. (replace rubber pads in strut spring cup and spring hat). You can vary thickness for increasing / decreasing ride height (I did on the back b/c the H&R sport springs lower the rear on the iX to much).

21. Using: a)pipe wrench b) channel locks c) cold steel chisel and hammer, remove strut insert collar nut. May need heat and strut should be in a vise as you crank on it. Highly recommend using PB blaster, rust off, etc… here.

22. once collar is off remove insert and pour out oil in strut.

That's it !!!! you have it all apart.

I replaced the upper strut bearings (seemed fine but had 200K miles on 'em), rubber spring pads (new 18 mos. ago), tie-rod and CA BJ nuts, strut nuts (new ones came with Konis), sway bar / drop link nuts, 3 strut mount nuts in engine bay, axle nut lock plates. ALL of these are one time use.

Also, follow the manufacturers recommended advice w/r/t keeping / modifying the bump stops for the struts, installing struts with / without oil in the strut housing.

I already had replace my front half-shaft CV boots (good time to do it if you haven't). Same with the sway bar drop links, rotors, pads, brake lines...etc.

Like they say, installation is the reverse of removal.

Installation Tips

1. Remember to use plenty of Swepco 101 moly grease where needed (shoulders for tie-rod and CA BJs).

2. use anti-seize on ABS sensor allen head screw, caliper screw, caliper mounting bolts (two), lug bolts, tie rod and CA BJ nuts, dust shield bolts, sway bar drop link nuts.

3. Torque tie rod and CA BJ nuts when wheels are back on and car is on the ground. Use a crow's foot extension on the torque wrench to get in there. Torque axle nuts when back on the ground (needs a lot of torque 142-155 ft lb).

4. Make sure new upper strut mount bearings are greased from BMW. If not, pack with swepco 101. You can install BMW OEM “crash mounts” in one of two positions to either increase or decrease F camber by ½ degree. Worth doing on a iX that has been dropped b/c K-mac and all al other aftermarket vendors don’t make an adjustable camber / caster mount for this car.

Good luck.

__________________
Jason

'58 -'76 P-cars
SSPI ~ JScott Racing

Last edited by jase007; 11-14-2006 at 11:02 AM..
Old 03-16-2004, 08:27 AM
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