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89 325i will not start

I just bought another E30! I got it really cheap knowing that it would not start because I figured the problem would probably just be the fuel pump. The car will run on starting spray but will barely stumble and stall without it. I checked all of the relays and they are working alright. I can hear the fuel pump come on but I guess it isnt delivering pressure.

I tried popping the return fuel line off to see if the pump was delivering enough pressure to make the regulator return fuel to the tank and it isnt. I have a fuel pressure tester but it only goes up to 10lbs, which the pump maxed out. Specs show it should be over 40 right?


Any words of wisdom here? Please help!!!

Old 11-23-2004, 04:46 AM
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First of all DO NOT use starting spray!!!!!

You can cause serious damage to your fuel injection components.... Starting spray is for carbureted cars, not fuel injection...

You should be getting at least 42psi in order for the car to run.. you need to check fuel pressure before the regulator. Just checking to see if the regulator opens is not going to tell you what the problem is...

What you really need to do is get a fuel pressure gauge and install it on the fuel rail prior to the pressure regulator...

If it's less than 42psi, the regulator or pump are bad.. More likely the regulator...

Here in California we have Earl's Plumbing, with a couple of retail shops where you can buy gauges and fittings. I got what I needed there for about $25. You need a T fitting that you can splice into the fuel line, then run to the gauge.. I have a T fitting permenantley in place with a small cap, so I can hook up a gauge to check pressure...

Another possibility is the coolant temp sensor.. If it's bad, the car will not start..
Old 11-23-2004, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jared at Pelican Parts
First of all DO NOT use starting spray!!!!!

You can cause serious damage to your fuel injection components.... Starting spray is for carbureted cars, not fuel injection...

You should be getting at least 42psi in order for the car to run.. you need to check fuel pressure before the regulator. Just checking to see if the regulator opens is not going to tell you what the problem is...

What you really need to do is get a fuel pressure gauge and install it on the fuel rail prior to the pressure regulator...

If it's less than 42psi, the regulator or pump are bad.. More likely the regulator...

Here in California we have Earl's Plumbing, with a couple of retail shops where you can buy gauges and fittings. I got what I needed there for about $25. You need a T fitting that you can splice into the fuel line, then run to the gauge.. I have a T fitting permenantley in place with a small cap, so I can hook up a gauge to check pressure...

Another possibility is the coolant temp sensor.. If it's bad, the car will not start..


Wow Jared, thanks alot. That advice was astoundingly helphul. I didnt know the temp sensor coudl be a prob...the engine did have a fire at some point not that long ago right by the fuel regulator. I assume it was the return or source fuel line because the lines and regualtor look very new. The temp sensor wiring looks a little bit messed up, thats prob the problem!!! Wow That would be so nice if I could just repair the wiring and be on my way. I wonder if Pelican sells the plug...

If the pump was pumping correctly shouldnt the regulator start returning fuel back to the tank? It has not returned a drop so far.

Again thanks alot, I never would have thought that just having a faulty temp sensor would cause it to not start...Wow. Maybe it is the pump or regulator.

Last edited by Anaxagoras1986; 11-23-2004 at 01:38 PM..
Old 11-23-2004, 01:33 PM
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Do a search for the resistance values on the site, Im sure I've posted them before... I don't have the info handy as I'm at my dad's house right now, helping him lay concrete for his new garage... We do sell the temp sensor... Look under E30 Fuel Injection in our parts catalog... It's the sensor with the blue connector
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/JF-Tech/BMW_E30_3_Series_coolant_temp_sensor.htm Read this as well...

Like I said before, pulling the return off the regulator and seeing if fuel is coming out is not an accurate way to check if the regulator is faulty, it's also potentially dangerous... there are a few variables in the system that can affect fuel pressure other than the regulator. Checking pressure is the only way to diagnose it correctly.

When was the last time you checked your fuel filter? Is it clogged?

You really need to buy the Bentley manual. It has detailed information on how to diagnose the entire fuel injection system...
Old 11-24-2004, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jared at Pelican Parts
Do a search for the resistance values on the site, Im sure I've posted them before... I don't have the info handy as I'm at my dad's house right now, helping him lay concrete for his new garage... We do sell the temp sensor... Look under E30 Fuel Injection in our parts catalog... It's the sensor with the blue connector
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/JF-Tech/BMW_E30_3_Series_coolant_temp_sensor.htm Read this as well...

Like I said before, pulling the return off the regulator and seeing if fuel is coming out is not an accurate way to check if the regulator is faulty, it's also potentially dangerous... there are a few variables in the system that can affect fuel pressure other than the regulator. Checking pressure is the only way to diagnose it correctly.

When was the last time you checked your fuel filter? Is it clogged?

You really need to buy the Bentley manual. It has detailed information on how to diagnose the entire fuel injection system...


I had a return line off of the reg going into a bucket. Not a drop came out. The worst thing the regulator could do is leak or not return fuel. If it isnt doing either I am not too too worried about it right now. It looks like it was replaced recently too.


I checked the fuel filter briefly. It flows very well but I dont know if when it is under pressure if that would make any difference with its flow.

I plan on checking the fuel pressure with the correct guage. The guage I tested with only went to 10psi which isnt nearly high enough. It did peg the 10psi guage rather quickly though. When the fuel line was off going into a bucket it doesnt flow very rapidly. Certainly not like what my Eta did.



I did manage to get it to stumble for a minute or two. The cats were glowing red right away....looks like they are backed up. I dont want to start it again until those are replaced, its no good for the valves (or anything for that matter) to have a backed up exhuast. The cats for it are insanely expensive though. Does anyone know of a retro fit that works well?


I have a chiltons manual.

Again, thanks for the help Jared!!!
Old 11-26-2004, 06:34 AM
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The cat should not glow red that quickly... It's probably blocked. That would prevent the car from starting....
Old 11-26-2004, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jared at Pelican Parts
The cat should not glow red that quickly... It's probably blocked. That would prevent the car from starting....


It certainly is not helping it. I have tried relieving the pressure though by pulling the O2 sensor to see if it would just make a little bit of difference and it made no difference. I have had backed up Cats before and it never made it so the car would not start, just not run right and lack serious power. In any case, I plan on doing something about that before I start it again. The extra heat is going to hurt the exhuast valves.
Old 11-26-2004, 12:44 PM
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if it's glowing red after a minute or two, something is seriously wrong... backed up or clogged cats CAN prevent a car from starting. Ask me how i know..
Old 11-26-2004, 02:03 PM
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Oh I am not saying that it cant prevent the car from starting, I was just saying that I havent had that problem before.

The prices for those cats are really high. I wonder why they havent gone down in price since they have been around for 20 years.
Old 11-27-2004, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Anaxagoras1986
cats for it are insanely expensive though. Does anyone know of a retro fit that works well?
If the emissions test in RI aren't that stringent, or you just want to get the car running, pull the cats and hollow them out.

As for the Chilton manual, I give it a 3-3.5 out of a 1-10 scale. The Bentley is far better manual.
Old 11-27-2004, 07:25 AM
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I took a Sawzall to my cat then welded it back shut...
Old 11-27-2004, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by makaio
If the emissions test in RI aren't that stringent, or you just want to get the car running, pull the cats and hollow them out.

As for the Chilton manual, I give it a 3-3.5 out of a 1-10 scale. The Bentley is far better manual.

I agree. The Chilton manual totally stinks. It is helpful in some cases but overall I think it is a bad source. I only got it because it was the only one in the store when I needed it right away for a few references.


Thanks for the help guys!
Old 11-28-2004, 08:00 AM
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Ok I got the replacement fuel pump in finally. Ill have to remember that is isnt always wise to buy things off of ebay!!!

I plan on replacing the fuel pump because it is checking out at under 40psi. Before I attempt start it, I want to do something about the cat being blocked up. Does anyone have any reccomendations as to how I should gut them?
Old 12-01-2004, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Anaxagoras1986
Ill have to remember that is isnt always wise to buy things off of ebay!!!
I agree 100%! Look before you leap is what I always say. Many times people on ebay will have parts priced 50-100% more than Pelican for new.
Old 12-02-2004, 06:10 PM
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I have bought alot of stuff from pelican before. I am no stranger here!

The fuel pump I bought was 25 dollars with 7 in shipping. Then the guy demanded 5 more dollars and made this big case out of it so I was just like whatever and gave him the extra money b/c I didnt feel like arguing. Then he shipped it to the wrong location. Just too much agrevation. I dont recall Pelican ever doing any of that...

Old 12-03-2004, 04:41 AM
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