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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Indy
Posts: 5
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Manual Transmission Fluid Change...
...has anyone done this and what is the best fluid to use. I have a 318i and I do not think that the last owner changed anything on the car. I have changed everything in the engine compartment and am now working on the drive line. I have 156,000 miles on the car. I was just needing to change the fluids in the the tranny and the diff. Thanks in advance!
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 126
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Redline D4 ATF and Royal Purple Syncromax seem to be the popular ones for the transmission. Don't fret too much over which one is better - buy whichever your favorite retailer stocks. Same goes with the differential fluid. You'll need a fluid pump for both jobs (about $6 at NAPA). For the diff, you'll need a 14mm internal hex (aka Allen) wrench/socket. You can buy a speciality tool for about $20 or you can make your own (look for a 3-pack of sockets at AutoZone for about $10 and grind the 14mm down as necessary). Buy two quarts of fluid each for the tranny and diff.
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 82
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I just replaced the tranny and differential fluid in my 96 328 and the difference was immediate and noticeable. I used AmsOil synthetic ATF in the tranny (a quart and a half), and the AmsOil severe gear 75-90 in the diff (a little more than a quart). Both of these fluids are guaranteed for a LONG time. My car just hit 70k, and the fluid didn't look bad, but it's cheap, fast preventitive maintainence. DBoyles was right about the wrenches though. The tranny uses both 19mm drain and fill plugs, but the diff is kinda hard to find a 14mm allen. If you can get a hold of a socket with a 14mm allen on it, use a hammer and screwdriver to punch the allen out of the socket, and use a 14mm end wrench to turn the fill plug. It's tucked behind the spare tire well, so there's not enough clearance to get a ratchet back there. It's about a 45 minute job to do both, and make sure your car is nice and warm so the fluid is thin and flows quickly. good luck!
BMR BOY
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'96 328i/5-speed/Montreal Blue/Dove Grey Dinan Exaust Ellipsoid Headlights w/Angel Eyes 18" Falken Koblenz Wheels, mounted with 225.40 front and 255.35 rear GR Beta FK 451 Tires |
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Moderator
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I bought a 14mm allen wrench and cut off a 1" piece with a cut off wheel to make my my diff plug tool. I can slide it into a socket or use a box wrench on it.
I use Royal Purple for the tranny and diff and it was noticably crisper shifting.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Location: Mississippi
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Edit: pay no attention to me, in this post at least
Quote:
Last edited by dboyles; 01-31-2006 at 02:39 PM.. |
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Location: Oregon
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I'm sorry for not being clear. On my 96, the drain and fill plugs were removed with a 19mm socket, not an allen wrench. It was much easier, both plugs are easily accessible, unlike the diff. Sorry for the vague information.
BMR BOY
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'96 328i/5-speed/Montreal Blue/Dove Grey Dinan Exaust Ellipsoid Headlights w/Angel Eyes 18" Falken Koblenz Wheels, mounted with 225.40 front and 255.35 rear GR Beta FK 451 Tires |
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Recap:
This info is from a E36 M3 but I think it is correct for most E36's. (318Ti' and others are probably exceptions.) The tranny drain and fill bolts standard bolts, use a standard socket, I think it was 19mm but it might have been 17mm. The diff drain and fill bolts are 14mm female hex, use a male allen socket or slip a 14mm box wrench over a small piece of 14mm wrench or 14mm stock. The M3 has the most clearance issues for the drain bolt I assume because the LSDiff is larger. Always remove the fill bolt before the drain and you might as well check the level before you drain it.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Okay, looks like I've added to the confusion. I usually keep quiet unless I'm pretty sure I know what I'm talking about - in this case I think I was mistaken.
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I double checked, its 17mm for the tranny not 19mm. I wouldn't have bothered but my Tranny is off for a clutch replacement so I was walking by it in the garage, anyway.
![]() I thought I remembered that it was the same as the lug bolts.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 Last edited by Jeron; 01-31-2006 at 04:12 PM.. |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 23
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I have a question....
I thought the transmission oil don't have to be changed on the E36's. Some people say yes, some no... I have a 96 328ic with 90k miles. Didn't do any work on the transmission or differential... so didn't change the fluid in them... should I do that? Sometimes, the transmission does have a kick when changing gears... could that be from the transmission fluid? If I replace the fluid, might run smoother?? from what BMR BOY said.... Abel |
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Quote:
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AbelBMW328iC do you have and automatic or manual tranny. Your comment seems to indicate and auto.
Changing fluid in an auto after 90k "can" dislodge sludge and dirt. Some mechanics say to change it every 50-60k but they worry about changing it if you let it go over 80k. I would change it even though it is 90k. It is a two person job and you will need four jack stands to raise and level the car. Change the differential fluid every 2 years.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
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Jeron,
yes it is an Automatic transmission.... Hmmm, now I dont know what to do... I'll have to ask a mechanic if they did it before, and how much they will charge me... I don't know if I want to get into changing transmission and differential fluid. Is there a DIY about changing them? Abel |
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I think Pelican has a DIY on both. The diff is very simple but it also shouldnt add much to the cost of a tranny fluid change so if you get the tranny done at a shop you might just pay an extra $40-50 and let them do both.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Hey guys, I have a 93 325is automatic and I am about to change my transmission fluid. The job seems pretty simple but I just want to make sure because it does not say on the tech article or in my repair manual about a automatic transmission filter kit. Does this mean I do not need one? Also, I read the replies about using synthetic atf, should I worry about using synthetic atf since my car is so old?
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My comments above stand.
Synthetic motor oils generally clean an engine better so it stands to reason synthetic ATF might clean or loosen dirt in the tranny. I'm pretty sure you need a filter kit and of course a gasket. If I were doing it I would use synthetic or if it has been a long time, I would plan to do a couple of changes a month apart with regular to flush. Then go to synthetic with another new filter. How long has it been?
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Hey jeron, thanks for the heads up. It hasn't been that long since I flushed out my tranny. Its only been a year. Im just trying to be cautious about the whole synthetic ATF thing is because I heard stories about people switching from regular to synthetic motor oil and would end up with leaks because of ould seals. I figured synthetic ATF would follow the same logic.
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Location: Docking Bay 94
Posts: 7,031
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Does anyone have an opinion on the difference between shifting with Redline MTL and Redline D4 ATF during cold weather (below freezing) before the tranny has had a chance to warm up? I'll be doing a fluid change here soon and the temps can get down into the teens and twenties.
Thanks.
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Moderator
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my325is, Synthetic "can" cause the external seals to leak, if you are changing the fluid every 2 years and not tracking the car then sticking with regular fluid might be a better choice.
KNS, I use Royal Purple MaxATF and I will soon be using RP Syncromax. I have no problems with cold shifting with RP. The MaxATF made shifting crisper then the OEM fluid in there before it.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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