Weird problems!!!! Need advice, quick

themats89 · 01-30-2006, 02:56 PM

Would like to run this by the experts before I start throwing parts at the problem.
My 87 325is has 49k original miles and in very good condition. I bought a computer off ebay with the JimC chip already installed.
A few months ago I found the car dead. Bought a new battery and was fine until about a month ago and was dead again. I tried finding a short, gave up and took it to my local mech. Just got it back last week and he said said he recharged the battery and the charging system was OK.
All was well until yesterday. Took an hour drive, parked, went out about 3 hours later and started it up to warm it up for 5-10 min. and went out and it was totally dead!! Interior lights barely on.
Got it jumped, warmed up again fine this time and took off. About 5 min. into the drive, at around 50mph it started to "stumble" (like something halting the fuel for a second) and the check engine light blinked on for a sec. This continued every 5 to 10 seconds. Sometimes the check engine light would remain on for a few min. then go off. My brother followed me along the highway, but the coolent didn't go up at all and everything else seemed ok (btw--i don't hear any noise from the fuel pump).
About 10 miles from home we pulled off the highway and I turned it off, debating whether to have it towed. I started it back up and it seemed fine!! The last 10 miles it only stumbled a few times.
Today it started up fine and seems to be running fine, no more "stumbles" or what seems like a momentary fuel cut-off.
I'm ordering a new timing belt from pelican, but does anyone have any ideas what the culprit could have been. After running fine for the last week then just going dead while idling and the problems with the drive home, then just clearing up???!!!!
Thanks for any and all advice!!!!!

wludavid · wludavid's Garage

There's rarely an easy answer when there are electrical problems. I'd try to recreate the problem where the battery dies. Maybe charge up the battery, start it, then attach a voltmeter to the battery. Watch the voltage for 10 minutes or so and see if it starts going down. When a mechanic checks the charging system, often he'll just check momentarily to see if it's at the proper voltage. But if it's drawing more than alternator can recharge it, it'll slowly discharge itself.

Also, from my experience with dying altenators, you'll get odd warning lights: CE lights, ABS, check lights. All these systems require voltage to run, and they'll start giving up if it drops too far.

BTW, BMW doesn't recommend that you warm the car before driving it. They recommend starting it and driving it away immediately, keeping the revs low until the oil warms up.

themats89 · 01-31-2006, 01:46 PM

thanks,,,,,since sunday everything has been fine, just got the oil changed today along with manual trans and diff. fluids (all mobil 1). next will be a new fuel filter and maybe the fuel regulater. i'll keep an eye on everything......
the resident guru on my other auto site always recommended warming a car for 5-10 min. to allow the fluids to warm up for the flow to be better to the internal parts. he said this was esp. important for auto transmissions to reach, a near normal, operating temp before the shifting began,,,lots of wear in that stage (according to him). maybe not as important with manuals.

pyguinard · pyguinard's Garage

Since the "Check Engine" light went on, wouldn't it help to read the fault codes?

crashthecar · 03-25-2006, 02:46 AM

Try installing the old DME for a couple of weeks and see if the problems continue. Seems to me if this only has been happening after the new DME then you can instantly isolate this to be the problem by using the old one for awhile.

I hate Ebay...

Jared at Pelican Parts · 03-29-2006, 08:39 AM

Sounds like either a bad DME or a failing alternator to me

akgustin · 04-11-2006, 10:52 AM

I was thinking of buying a DME off of Ebay. Is that a bad idea?

jase007 · jase007's Garage

Quote:

I was thinking of buying a DME off of Ebay. Is that a bad idea?

I wouldn't.

What's your recourse ... is a fairly big $$$ item ....

Jase

Jared at Pelican Parts · 04-11-2006, 12:04 PM

you need to make sre the numbers on the dme's match up

akgustin · 04-11-2006, 12:17 PM

That was my next question. If I have a 153(M1.1), can I upgrade to a 173(M1.3), or even higher?

A new DME costs 500-$600.

On Ebay they go ~ $50. Am I just being naive?

theInstrucTOR · 04-11-2006, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by akgustin
That was my next question. If I have a 153(M1.1), can I upgrade to a 173(M1.3), or even higher?

you can replace a -153 with a -173

you can look into getting the dme you have repaired. There's a company that advertises in the Roundel that repairs them. I'm drawing a blank on their name right now, but I can look it up and update this post.