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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4
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info on E36 newbie
Hi,
I am looking for info on buying a used BMW 3 series. I currently have a 93 nissan maxima. lets say that car is getting tired of me and I am getting tired of it.. I am in market for a used car. leaning towards 1996-98 3 series mostly sedan or coupe I did not like later models and they are out of my budget. my budget is around $10K. Older ones I am not sure how tough it would be to maintain. I need to know - what are pluses (+'s) for these years (if any) - any potential or likely problems (big or small)? - what is a good way to look for used BMW (i am looking at autotrader.com). any good bmw user sites I did search internet for good info on old BMW 3 series. but the sites I found weren't good enough. I have some experience in driving and maintaining used cars. I have changed brake pads, bearings, ABS pumps, AC condenser etc. I do know older BMW cars need time and money. But i need get a better idea. Small repairs I can do my self. But bigger ones like replacing a sensor buried deep in engine or transmission or work that needs two or more persons will be a pain for me..!!! Any inputs will help ![]() |
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Registered
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I've had my '97 328is (coupe) for 5 years. I don't pretend to be a mechanical wizard, but I can tell you from personal experience some of the stuff I've run into.
First off, the inline 6 engine (M52) wears like a frickin' anvil with regular maintenance. I got mine with 49k on the odometer, have put on 50k more, & have never had to do anything except change the oil. Major engine work (bad or spun bearings, broken/cracked rods, broken rings, scored cylinders) just doesn't seem to happen, from what I've heard or experienced. I've heard plenty of folks talk about their e36 engines running 2 to 3 hundred k with just regular maintenance. The only mechanical stuff I've run into was replacing the clutch (normal wear) at about 80k, & I had to replace the radiator, because the neck broke, which I hear is pretty common with these cars. What I find more often with these cars is the quirky stuff going bad. Electrical issues are pretty common. The power window switches, motors, & regulators often need replacing. Their are often interior illumination issues with pixel failures on the odometer & stereo head unit. Brake light circuit problems can cause irritation. Sensors in the coolant tank, brake pads, ect can go bad. I had an issue with my steering column lock braking, that was kinda costly. Otherwise, I've been very happy. I'm probably fortunate to not have a lot of problems, but even if you run into more things to maintain than I have, the up side to an e36 3 series makes up for it. The car drives like a champ. Exceptional handling, cornering & feel for the road. Acceleration & speed are good, but there's some nice aftermarket stuff you can do to make it quicker. I would definitely get the 5 speed, & go with the bigger 2.8 liter engine (328) if you can. Bottom line, once you drive one, you'll wonder why you ever held onto that Nissan Maxima for so long. I'd go about buying one the same way you are now, ........ Auto trader online. That worked great for me, cause you can search your exact criteria, within a specific radius from your home. Here is a link that gives you a synopsis of what the different BMW models mean, this could help in picking out the right model for you. BMW Designation Here's a couple good links BMW Info DYI Links
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Every Boy Becomes A Man. A Fortunate Few Reverse The Process. 97 328is Black on Black 5 speed Sport Package, Short Arm Intake with ABS Molded Heat Shield, Custom Mounted Front Strut Bar, Elevated Clutch Stop, Polished Aluminum Roundel Shifter, AC Schnitzer Aluminum Pedal Set, Chrome Instrument Cluster Rings & Carbon Fiber Bezel, Crystal Clear Corners, OEM Clear Tail & Side Lights, Scalloped Headlight Trim, Custom 'is' Grill Badge, Alpine C43 Stereo Upgrade, Front Bumper Filler Last edited by supertack; 06-27-2006 at 04:43 AM.. |
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Moderator
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Supertrack gave lots of good advice above.
Read my first post in this thread and follow the links I gave even though its M3: Online pricing for a '95 M3 - kbb.com, edmunds.com Also read my first post in this thread: model codes
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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I'm with Bill
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Scottsville Va
Posts: 24,186
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My 92 has 217 on the clock and only uses 1qt every 3k. If you buy from 93 and up you should be ok. If you find a car post it here and we'll be more than happy to give it the 'ol once over. These are great DD's. I track mine every chance I get, and drive it to work the next day.
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Electrical problems on a pick-up will do that to a guy- 1990C4S |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4
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thanks for the tips
I finally put one step ahead. I test drove a 328is here at BMW dealer. I just wanted to drive a E36 BMW. After ride I have couple of questions. I have a 2004 Accord along with 93 nissan maxima. So I compare against those. I did feel the horse power and kind of heavy(no floatness). But did'nt experience much of BMW ness (ultimate driving)... Of course I did not drive on curvy roads, freeway. I know that in curves,quick turns BMW sticks to road pretty well. I would like to know how can I experience or feel BMW...in a better way. I also want to know unique traits characterstics of BMW 3 series. Of course I don't want to damage the car. I don't want to antagonize the seller also Any tips from pro s... |
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I'm with Bill
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Scottsville Va
Posts: 24,186
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Drive it like you stole it. Shift high, turn quick, gas alot.
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Electrical problems on a pick-up will do that to a guy- 1990C4S |
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Moderator
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It's hard to feel a car on a test drive. First because you aren't yet comfortable in a new car and second because you are usually chaperoned by the current owner.
Try to find a nice sweeping corner like a highway on ramp. Also any area with deserted streets where you can corner without worrying about traffic etc. As long as you let it warm up for 10 minutes you can drive as hard as you want. The only way to damage it is if you hit something or grab the wrong gear. Any mechanical problems that might occur were soon to happen anyway.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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