Ball Joint/ Contol Arm

Fadec40 · 01-24-2007, 08:22 AM

I know there are other posts regarding ball joint replacement. I have a 328i and had new tires put on, and they said there was slight play in the left front outer ball joint. I did see a little play.

Two things I'd like to ask:

First, Do you have to replace the ball joint WITH the control arm for ease of installation?

Second, will a standard ball joint puller do the trick?

Bear · 01-24-2007, 08:27 AM

Not sure on your car,but on the E30s the ball joints are not serviceable items (so I have been told) and the control arm with ball joint installed must be replaced.

Fadec40 · 01-24-2007, 08:29 AM

Thanks.

I do have the Bentley manual and it appears you can just replace the ball joint. But I've been reading and hearing that the control arm should be done as well.

Bear · 01-24-2007, 08:40 AM

You may be right, I have both a Haynes and a Bentley and I grabbed the Haynes and they state must replace control arm. I look at vendor sites and they sell the ball joints (there are two, an inner and an outer) on each control arm. I would then assume a pickle fork, tie rod puller or a large hammer (bang the ball joint up and out of the control arm) even a bottle jack might work. depending on mileage, yu might want to just replace the control arm as it comes with the ball joints installed.

Fadec40 · 01-24-2007, 08:41 AM

Yea, might as well spend a little more time and money and replace both and be done with it.

Thanks

Bear · 01-24-2007, 09:08 AM

I think that is wise. I did my daughter and son-in-laws 1990 325ic that way (also replaced the control arm bushings while I was at it). I just revisited the E30 (you must have an E36) Bentley and on the E30 the ball joints are not replaceable, must replace the control arm.

Jeron · Jeron's Garage

On E36 only the outer ball is replacable so you usually replace the whole arm. Consider replacing the CAB (control arm bushing) if you do the whole arm. While you are there look at the sway bar endlinks and the tie rods.

Fadec40 · 12:11 PM

Thanks for input all.
How about this for an easier installation.

I purchase the control arm which includes the ball joint already pressed in AND I get the control arm bracket with the bushing pressed in that. This way, the only hard part is getting the ball joint end out with a standard ball joint tool.

The control arm bushing bracket is just secured with two bolts.

The reason I am thinking of this is because I do not have a puller/press kit.....Just a standard ball joint tool (fork.)

Schneller · 01-25-2007, 07:35 AM

Ahh, the fantasy of doing control arms on your back. I assume that we're talking about a car with some miles on it?
Just be ware that you might get one of the control arm ball joint free from its mounting point while the other comes only part way out due to the nut becoming jammed on rusty threads. Now you won't be able to re secure that joint either so that you can drive the car somewhere to get it fixed. Given the possibility of this scenario, what's your plan on finishing the job? Do you own torches, air tools etc. Best to be prepared. Also, After replacing these front end components, don't forget to have a 4 wheel alignment.

Good Luck

Schneller

grafhky52 · 01-26-2007, 03:38 AM

IF I WERE DOING THIS I WOULD JUST TAKE IT TO THE DEALER. THIS JOB IS A PAIN WITH OUT THE USE OF A LIFT AND LIKE MENTION ABOVE IF YOU CANT GET THE NUT OFF BECAUSE THE JOINT WILL SPIN YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO FIX IT EITHER, AND THEN YOU WOULD HAVE TO GET IT TOWED

Fadec40 · 01-26-2007, 04:03 AM

Again, thanks all for your input. I guess it is a matter of some people having a hell of time removing it and some just get lucky.
The price that I was quoted for doing one side's ball joint and control arm and bushings was almost equal to doing the job myself for BOTH sides. I do agree with the point that it is not the best way to do a job like this without a lift and there most likely will be problems, especially with ball joints and bushings on ANY vehicle.

dfrost · 01-26-2007, 02:29 PM

I had both control arms (with new ball joints pre-installed) replaced at 110K, followed by a decent alignment.

When I took it in for a fresh alignment at about 145K, the alignment shop (different, very good shop, very familiar with BMW's), they noted that those outer ball joints were already shot. They installed newer reinforced ball joints in the existing control arms. Not cheap, but in 20K since, no further alignment issues.

So whatever you do or how you do it, make sure you get the better ball joints. Hope an expert on this forum can tell you how to identify those.

robc328i · 01-26-2007, 07:09 PM

98 328i. Ordered the Meyle control arms, sway bar hangers, and control arm bushings (the pre-installed ones) from Pelican. Used the 101 Projects book. No lift involved, just jack stands. First time I've done this and it took me about an hour per side. Soaked all nuts with PB Blaster. I used dish soap to help slide the new Control arm bushings on. This project was way easier than I expected it to be, I had a alignment done after the install. Only tool I had to buy was a $10 pickle fork at AutoZone.

Fadec40 · 01-26-2007, 07:13 PM

That's why I posted here..so much input and useful info.

Robc328i, it looks like you had no problems removing ball joints and bushings...With my luck,,I'll have a hell of a time.

robc328i · 01-26-2007, 07:49 PM

I had to do a fair amount of beating on the pickle fork to get the ball joints to loosen up. Like I said first time doing anything like this but it went OK. I used a small crescent wrench for the inner nut on the control arm, Wayne used a bunch of extensions and a breaker bar. I didn't have those so I improvised.