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Wobble in Steering Wheel...

...when braking. I had the front lower control arm bushings replaced and the outer ball joints replaced too. I replaced the rotors and brake pads. Had new tires put on. All of this rectified the problem for about three weeks and then the wobble started to come back. Slowly the wobble got worse. Now if you start to apply the brakes, the wobble gets intense, and then if you apply harder, the wobble starts to subside. The car tracks straight through all of this...which makes me believe it could be the tie rod ends, but then again, it seems like it could be the "warped" rotor feel. These are new rotors though. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Shaken not swerved

Sorry, more info......1997 318i.


Last edited by buck881; 04-10-2007 at 06:44 AM..
Old 04-10-2007, 06:04 AM
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Sounds like "warped" rotors to me too. Have you tried doing a brake bed-in procedure (3-5 hard stops in a row from 60-5mph)?
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Old 04-10-2007, 11:30 AM
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Check your brake calipers. I had a problem with one sticking. It made the steering wheel wobble.
Old 04-11-2007, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeron
Sounds like "warped" rotors to me too. Have you tried doing a brake bed-in procedure (3-5 hard stops in a row from 60-5mph)?
Yeah, I tried that....and still do that when the wobble gets really bad. It helps a little now but it helped a lot after I started to notice the wobble. I'm thinking that Bendix ceramic pads are not all they are cracked up to be. They may be leaving deposits on my rotors.
Old 04-13-2007, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by caritchey
Check your brake calipers. I had a problem with one sticking. It made the steering wheel wobble.
I haven't tried that. What is a way to check the caliper to make sure it's not sticking? Can a caliper move a bit and then stick making the contact not full on? When I apply my brakes, the initial grab makes the steering wheel wobble intensely. If I were to apply harder, it levels out but still wobbles. If I let go of the steering wheel, the car does not veer off to the left or the right. That's the confusing part if it was a caliper issue. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance
Old 04-13-2007, 05:17 AM
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I'm even more convinced its pad deposits. The deposits could be caused by a sticking caliper or even a pad that is too aggressive.

Check the dust boots around the piston for tearing or dislodging. I would just rebuild them. The parts are <$10 each and its not hard but you have to bleed them afterward.

When you put it all back together make sure you lube the guide pins and all toughing parts with anti-seize.
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:36 AM
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Since I had already replaced my bushings, lower ball joints, brake rotors/pads and tires...do you think that I might have done some damage? I hope not after spending that much money!! Thanks in advance!
Old 04-13-2007, 11:05 AM
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Damage to what? I doubt it's done any damage.

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Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima
Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4
Old 04-13-2007, 02:48 PM
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