Suggestion WTB 3 Series ~ $7k

[hcoles]

... I'm sneaking over here from the 911 bbs.
Need recommendation for BWM 3 series for about $7k.
What years/motors should I stay away from? I feel like I would like 95 or slightly older to stay away from OBD-II to make my life easier, but I don't know if that is a big issue...I can get a scanner and try and learn as I go, maybe not even need that to start with.
I'm very able to do maintenance and water pump changes/etc. E.g. I recently DIY the top end on my 911... and of course a bunch of other "while your in there" projects.
Son needs a car and wants a 3 series.
I want to get one and go over it, and have a relatively low chance of unexpected service "events".

I had a new 71 2002, drove it for 14 years, great car.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I live in Saratoga CA.

-Henry

[Jeron]

I doubt you can get an M3 for 7k but you can get just about any other 95-ish 3 for 7k.

I dont think OBD-II makes things maint harder but some chips and upgrades are slightly more expensive.

Cant think of anything to stay away from but you mentioned water pumps any they had a few bad years but all the bad pump should be nearly gone by now and the pumps are cheap and easy to replace.

I'd get the newest 328 you can find, but do you want your son to have a fast car? Also, you might consider getting a E36 325 and make it a track car in the future. The 325 is the most advantageous model as far as classifications go.

[hcoles]

Jeron,
Thanks very much for responding..
I have been looking pretty hard at 94-95 325i or 325is...
I was sort of staying away from OBD-II... but now I'm not so sure because of your comment.
So maybe I can look at later years.... 96-98ish.
Re. son...I don't really want him to have a fast car and will likely stay away from M3 mainly for purchase price reasons the 325 is probably fast enough to get in trouble if he wants.
Son can turn lap times same as I can and I really have to push to beat him on AX events....he has some sort of natural talent for driving...which makes me proud and don't like getting beat at the same time.
So I guess to sum up your comments.. try to get the latest model E36 3 series? Is that what you are saying? I don't really plan to make mods...at this point... I'll be happy to get the car and spend 4 months going over it so he can drive it a bit and take back to school.
It seems the personality of the members on the BMW part of the site seem to be a bit different than the 911 part of the bbs. I was glad you made a response, I was wondering if it was me or ? I guess it is not uncommon for people without the cars of interest to not be taken seriously. E.g. very likely on the 911 side people would respond quickly with comments like promoting 911SC or 3.2 911's as good years to get/etc. In any case thanks and I look forward to any addition suggestions or thoughts you have time to give me. There are some indications that A&E performance in Campbell is a good place to take for PPI.
-Henry

[Jeron]

"I" would buy the car expecting to turn it into a track car in 4 years, especially if he is already interested in the track. The 94-95 325 is a good track car. I've considered getting and E30 myself for a track rat, if only I had more garage space. If my son was 10 years older it'd be E30 but in 10 years it will be E36.

Certain E30 parts are becoming more expensive..

OBD-II can be helpful to diagnose problems.

Most of the BMW side traffic is on the e30-e36-e46 Tech forums which is why it took me so long to make this response. The Porsche forums here are more active and of course opinionated.

[hcoles]

Jeron,
Thanks much. I guess my next posts or you can move my post should be on the other part of the bbs.

Yesterday I went to the place (A&E Performance in Campbell CA) to ask re. PPI and 328 vs. 325 OBD/vs OBD-II - the owner Al said 95 325 makes the most sense to him in terms of value per $$$. Interestingly... I asked re. leak down test and he said they usually don't do it... if the car doesn't have good oil change history then usually lots of stuff is wrong and stay away from it...opinion?

The concensus was that there is a significant premimum for 328 (given the same miles) and not a corresponding increase in performance or value. Re. ODB-II vs. ODB-I... yes I'm still in the connumdrum(sp?) of car being maybe a bit easier to squeek by smog vs. more traps but easier to diagnose using ODB-II. If I was more up to speed on ODB-II or felt confident of what scanner to buy and learn.... for right now I think I'm looking for a 95 325 stick. Should I repost this in another location? so other can follow along?

-Henry

[hcoles]

Jeron,
Why do I see E30 and E46 3 series forums and not a E36 tech forum? Seems like that would be the tech forum I would most expect to see.
-Henry

[Jeron]

The E30 and E36 tech forums are combined. Wayne did that when his E30/E36 book came out.

In TX if you CEL is not on an an OBD-II the they dont do a smog test. If it is OBD-I they put it on the dyno and smog test it. So basically if you have a OBD-II you know you will pass smog before you get tested. I dont know how CA works.

A good oil change history is important because it indicates a generally well maintained car but it is not a guarantee. Meeting the owner is probably the best indication other than the actual examination of hte car. A leakdown is a good test but it usually costs quite a bit extra.

Based on your comments I would say focus on getting a good specimen rather than 325 vs 328.

p.s. I moved this thread to the Tech forum.

[hcoles]

Good point on meeting the owner. I forgot about that. On the P car forum they say sometimes you are buying the person not the car. Another way to say the same thing.

Re ODB-I are there diagonostic "ports" or places you can hook into and read codes/etc. with some sort of reader that is generally available? Can the codes be found out or does BMW keep them secret? I have a 95 Suburban and we hooked into the port on that and diagnosed a leaking intake gasket, so just wondering if I will be able to educate and equip myself for a OBD-I 3-series BMW.

Thanks, I'll keep you posted, I currently checking autotrader everyday for cars.

-Henry

[Jeron]

Originally posted by hcoles
Good point on meeting the owner. I forgot about that. On the P car forum they say sometimes you are buying the person not the car.

I like that analogy.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm

[hcoles]

fault code reading.... very good shouldn't be too hard to learn
Thanks.
-Henry

[hcoles]

car search update - went to see a car from craigslist today - 1994 325is - it had a number of issues - probably one that made me the most nervous - #2 spark plug hole had a helicoil put in it. It wouldn't start, so we jumped it from his new BMW Mini. It had 176k miles and the engine seemed to run great. Had receipts and I liked the guy but there were just to many things.. only asking $4,400. I'm now thinking an ODB-II car (328) would be better or a much cleaner 325. My sister used to have a 328 and it seemed to really go... this 325 didn't have that feeling. It was the first 325 I've driven. Talked to my BMW mechanic today and he was sort of pushing the newer cars with the more "modern" system. He just got a 98 M3... nice I should sell the 911 and get one of those... much nicer daily driver...getting back to the subject..
There seems to be very nice cars out there for $7k ish, getting a $4k car and putting $3k into it wouldn't get it to a value of $7k and think of all the wrenching/educating/hassle.... so I'm sort of going in the direction of getting a better car. Jeron... I was just wondering.. I couldn't find any posts talking about reconditioning/boring cylinders and then putting in new pistons/etc. Maybe this is not so easy to do with these engines or maybe not really needed very often. Are the cylinders Nicasil lined or is there different metalurgy for different years? I just wanted to read about that. E.g. in Porsche land... it is much better to have Nicasil cylinders compared to Alusil and was wondering if there was a similar thing in E36 engine land. You do a lot of work keeping this bbs going. No need to spend much time on me.... yet. ;-) I just thought I would keep people updated. Thanks,
-Henry
89 911 - daily/track/AX
325-328 E36 - looking for one for #1 son
88 Volvo - bought new - many miles - now training #2 son on it
95 Suburban - runs perfect, very clean, bought new, only 150k miles

[Jeron]

I haven't heard much, if anything, about re-boring and new pistons. I would say it is rare.

Nacasil was a problem on late 90's small V8's IIRC. I think it was the 530. The issue was gas formulation in the States. No problems since.

I saw a E36 M3 Auto FS for 10k in the classified forum.
Fs: 1998 Bmw M3

[hcoles]

Jeron,
Ok, I was just asking because on the 911 site they talk so much about new cylinders and pistons/etc. I was sort of worried that there was no way to fix a BMW engine, just have to get a new block. On the 911 I pulled the cylinders off and had them lightly honed and put on new rings.. I hope I'm good for at least 100k miles. I guess you don't often do this on a 325 or 328 E36 engine.
I got the 101 projects for E30/E36 book today, good reading.
Yes, thanks for the M3 link...2 issues.. I think the price is very good, I want a manual trans, and I think at this point it is too much car for my son. I'm currently making arrangements to go visit a guy that has a 1996 328is 120k miles, asking $6,900.. the price is reasonable compared to others I've seen online.

I'm starting to think a 1998 M3 would be a good car for me however. I could be getting tired of the P car. I know if I change I'll hate myself after putting so much work into the 911.

Thanks,
-Henry

[hcoles]

ok, update - just looked at a 1997 328is - "is" just means 2 doors.. that's all it means - dark green - the paint was perfect - very nice car - 127k miles - had bra and mirror bras. I would need to check under them. The car seemed to run perfect...AC worked/etc. Not sure if my son will like it because of no "sport" package. We'll see.

[dfrost]

The E36 Sport package consisted of slightly lower (maybe 1/2") suspension (can't remember if the sway bars are different), wider and lower profile tires (also larger diameter wheels, depending on year), and seats with higher side bolsters and the extendable thigh support. The last is always the easiest way to spot a Sports model.

I'd say the suspension differences are only marginally better, but the seats are very nice for someone with very long legs like me, although those bolsters tend to wear more then the standard seats. Tires and wheels are easily changed of course, and may have been by previous owners, anyway.

[hcoles]

Dave, Jeron:
Thanks for the info. I'm getting pretty good at "seeing" the sport package now.
I have a line on a 96 328i with sport package.
The VIN indicates made in the USA... this there any reason this is good or bad? Other than lacking a boat ride, I figure it should be ok.. hopefully uses the same process and materials.
Where do I get a deep VIN check?
The VIN is 4uscd1328tLb10315.
We are pretty serious about this car, the Carfax doesn't look to odd.
The car is about 100 miles away so it is not easy to go see...was wanting to the as much info. as possible before going to look.
I also want to ask the guy again for a picture of the drivers seat.
Car is black, 328i, which sport package. dove grey int. 116k miles asking $8k