E36 328is Starter Replacement

[DeanBrew]

I am in the process of replacing a starter on my 97 328is. According to several DIYs, it is necessary to remove the intake (or transmission) to access the bolts securing the starter. My starter is attached via two E12 torx head bolts that thread into the flange on the starter. I have removed the intake, so I can now see the starter. I have a 3/8 drive E12 socket, but can't see how I am supposed to get a socket wrench on the bolts. The firewall gets in the way from above and I can't hardly see the starter from below.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dean

[Jeron]

If the starter body itself is threaded then there is no reason to remove the intake. All the work is done from below and it is difficult to reach the top bolt.

For the top bolt you need about 2' worth of extensions with at least one womble and a 18-24" breaker bar. I used E12 > 6" reg 3/8 extension > 9" womble > 6" womble >3" reg > 3/8 to 1/2 adapter > 1/2 18" breaker bar

A large ratchet is better than a breaker bar. You may need to put pressure on the extensions then hold it with your hand and re ratchet because of limited space.
The bottom bolt is not as hard.

Disconnect the battery. Make sure it is secure on jack stands. Soak the bolts with liquid wrench. Loosen or unbolt the rear tranny support. Protect the oil pan with a block of wood and jack the front edge of the engine a couple of inches to tilt it back to give you more room above the tranny.

The top starter bolt is one of the 2 hardest bolts when doing a clutch job.

[DeanBrew]

Is it necessary to lower the exhaust system to let the tail end of the transmission dip down? What about the drive shaft center support? Will the jacking the engine by the pan tilt it even though the motor mounts are attached? I probably have all the extensions you described. I had even tried snaking them up along the side of the transmission (automatic BTY), but no luck.

___________________
1997 328is Sierra/Tan
1996 328is Black/Black
2003 M3 coupe Titanium/Black
1983 Porsche 911SC Light Bronze/Brown
1972 Corvette vert LT-1 Targa Blue/Blue (Not currently drivable)

[Jeron]

I was summarizing my notes from a clutch job so I had the exhaust and driveshaft out.

With the exhaust and drivshaft in place, there should be enough slop to droop the tranny and inch or so. The exhaust is what I would worry about most. You can loosen the exhaust hangers but don't remove them. You'll want to be careful with the shift linkage also.

I don't know how an automatic moves or affects access to the starter.

The engine will pivot back on its mounts.

You should be able to get your hand on the starter but it is a tight fit. Take the E12 and put it on the top bolt alone then try snaking the extensions up onto it. Wear goggles you will probably end up dropping the extensions on your face at least once.

Since you have the intake off you might explore options from the top but I don't think you can get the leverage to unbolt it.

Going back over it in my mind I would:
1) remove the bolts on the tranny support bracket
2) loosen the exhaust hangers as far as possible but leave them attached
3) slowly jack the front of the engine an inch or so; watching the shift linkage and exhaust along the way
4) get the E12 on the top bolt
5) loosen the wires on the back of the starter
6) snake the extensions along the top of the tranny

[DeanBrew]

Thanks Jeron. I will give it a try this week and see how it goes. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond.

Dean