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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4
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Water Pump change now wont start
I changed out my thermostat, water pump, and belts, now my 98 328i wont start. Won't turn over, just makes clicking sounds for a second and then nothing. Battery and connections appear fine and I had no problems starting before now. I cant think of any sensors I may have left unplugged. I did have to remove a sensor from my exhaust that was blocking my coolant drain plug but it went back in fine. One thing when I drained my coolant it splashed everywhere. Could I have gotten something wet that just needs to dry out? Its dark now so I'm giving up for the night. Really would like to be able to drive to work tomorrow. Any suggestions? (Please dont tell me I need a new starter cause the water pump and thermostat broke me)
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Moderator
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Battery.
Try jump starting it.
__________________
HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4
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Doh, I feel like an idiot now. I guess that what happens when you work on a car till 4am. Now All I gotta do is bleed my coolant and everything should be fine.
::Crosses fingers:: |
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Moderator
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So it was the battery?
Yes, 4am or simply in a hurry each distort your perspective.
__________________
HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4
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Yeah it was the battery. Bleeding went fine and I spent 2 hours of interstate stop and go in the heat with no temp change. The gauge is staying straight in the middle, which seems kind of high to me but after lots of driving it never moved any higher.
Next task is fixing all the codes my obd2 is throwing at me. I pulled my codes and there were 7 of them so I've got my work cut out for me. o2 sensors, coolant sensor, and a couple I've never heard of which I'll post later. |
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Moderator
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Highway driving is not a good indicator for the cooling system. Do some stop and go and some 5 min idling.
Reset the codes, see what comes back and go from there.
__________________
HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4
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One question, where should the temp be, it seems to like to stay right at half way. I seem to remember it being lower than that before. Maybe its the new thermostat i put in. Maybe its a higher temp thermo.
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Moderator
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It should move to 12oclock within 5 minutes and stay there. If it ever moves off of 12 then there is a problem. The 12oclock position is actually a range of about 30f.
__________________
HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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'99 323is //
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 3
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Dead center (12 noon) is spot on. The new thermostat really makes a difference. I just replaced mine with the stock 92 deg. Cel. unit and mine warmed up so much faster than before, but stayed dead center. My old t-stat was stuck open, the car never fully warmed up. You should be okay. FYI, if you want a lower t-stat, the M3 came stock with one set for 88 deg. Cel.
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