e36 clutch slave bleed

[Fgotti]

I recently chanced the clutch slave on my 1994 325is because the old on was leaking. After I changed it I attempted to bleed the system for a whole day with a power bleeder which sucks the fluid out through the slave. So next I changed the clutch master thinking that may be the problem. Now I had some clutch pressure but the rod on the slave was only coming out half way when I pushed in the clutch pedal so I can’t get it into any gear. So I changed the slave again and I am still having the same problem. I have no visible leaks anywhere from the master cylinder down to the slave. I also have tried bleeding this thing every possible way know to man. I tried the pump 2 man method. I have used my power bleeder. I have used Bavarian's bleeder tool which was worthless. I have even done it by hand pushing the plunger against the bell housing and the bleeder valve facing to the sky. My last resort would to buy a Motive pressure bleeder. Would this be a good idea? I don't know what else I can do at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[coolbear1]

I recently replaced my clutch slave (along with everything else on the car) and had the same problem.
I did a google search and found a page on building a pressure bleeder from everyday items.
I tried it, it was simple, and it worked great.
Solved my problem for around $15.

http://www.streetcruizin.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11953

I did it a little differently, I bought a used brake res. cap, from a junk yard, drilled a hole in the top and threaded a air hose adapter in it. I put a valve and a gauge in the air inlet.
I turned the regulator on my air compressor down to 10lbs. instead of the pump up sprayer. A little different aproach, but the theory is the same.

[Jeron]

Originally Posted by Fgotti

I have even done it by hand pushing the plunger against the bell housing and the bleeder valve facing to the sky.

I bled mine using the above method with a positive pressure bleeder in place (Motive). I don't think the Motive was the trick though, just the method above should be enough. Make sure the nipple is high, pointing up and you close the bleeder before releasing pressure on the plunger.

[Fgotti]

Thanks for the help. I am going to try the pressure bleeder method because I have tried the other mulitiple time with no luck. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks

[Kurt Sampara]

If that doesn't work? Try this which works great. I purchased a new hand oiler (oil pump $5.00) I put rubber brake line on the end which is air tight and pumped clean brake fluid up from the slave bleeder to the reservoir. This works very well as it is the natural path of any air in the line. Just remember to remove some fluid prior to starting. Good luck. Kurt.

[Fgotti]

Ok I bleed it using the pressure bleeder. Now I have good pressure and the I couldn't get it into gear. removed the clutch stop at the bottom of the pedal and it got a little better but still rough going into gear. If it drive it until it gets warmed up it goes into gear like a new car. But the next morning it's back to the same thing. Clutch has less than 10k on it. I replaced it with a centerforce dual friction. Also the clutch pedal sits about 1 in higher than the brake pedal but its been like that since I bought it. There is no air in the system. I have bleed it 3 times. In 1st gear it will creep whith the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know the is no way to adjust the pedal but so I have no idea what the issues is. I have run out of parts to replace?

[coolbear1]

When it creeps down to the floor, does it work when you pick it back up with your hand(or foot)?

If you get some clutch action after you pick it up, you may have gotten a deffective clutch master cylinder.
Mine went bad immediately after I replaced my clutch and slave, and it was fairly new. I honestly don't know if it got contaminated because of me distubing some rust during the repair or what.

[Fgotti]

No I mean the car creeps like it's still in gear with the clutch pressed all the way to the floor while in first gear. I changed the slave twice and the master twice also. I am now thinking the hose going to the slave is bulging somehow while under pressure and when the fluid expands its giving it enough pressure to allow it to go into gear. So I ordered a Stainlesses line. We will see if that fixes it.

[coolbear1]

That thing about it clearing up when warm bothers me.
You ether have air in the line or you don't. Warming it up isn't going to make it go away.
Is it possible you installed the pressure plate wrong side out? Or maybe the throw- out bearing or yoke installed wrong.
Can you tell if the slave is traveling all the way when someone else pushes the clutch in while you are under the car? If it is, can you turn the rear wheels by hand with the car jacked up, in gear and the clutch depressed?
Also, The leaking slave cylinder you replaced, are you sure it wasn't the engine rear seal leaking? You don't have oil leaking from inside the clutch housing now do you?
If you do smell it. Does it smell like exaust?

[Fgotti]

I removed the slave and it not coming out the whole way. I would say about 1/2 way. I pulled it out pushed it up against the frame and had my wife push in the clutch. This is why I am leaning toward the line and not the clutch. I changed the rear main seal when the clutch was done. Throw out bearing was new when the clutch was done. And when it warms up there is no problem what so ever I drove it for 30 min in traffic. So I am going to change the line before I pull the tranny because its the easiest thing to do. I was also wondering if anyone knew if there was a way to pull the tranny without pulling the intake to get to the top starter bolt. That is to much of a hassle and if it wasn't for that I would have already pulled the tranny.

[Fgotti]

Oh and no the is no oil on the bottom of the bellhousing.