Help me to figure out what's wrong with my car..

green_bimmer · 10-28-2008, 06:04 PM

Hello all,
I have 96 E36, automatic

There's this irregular squeaky sound coming near alternator (I think), I squirted some WD40 near the alternator bushing and the sound became worse. From this, I concluded that the sound is coming out of the alternator but many others think it is the idler pulley that is located below the alternator. what do you guys think? I looked at the idler pulley and it did seem wobbly. it could be the belt too I guess..

Moving on to the water pump area, My water pump fan blades broke off (maybe 6-7 of the blades just flew right off the fan) luckily it did not damage the radiator, after I replacing the fan, I start hearing this grumbling noise, it sounds like the fan is loose or something. Could it be the water pump bearing that is making that sound? I just wanted to hear your opinions.

When I drive around with window down, I can hear my engine sound bouncing off the wall if I happen to drive by one. I hear this clicking sound, like the sound that you may hear when the valve is loose. I heard that BMW have somewhat different valve system though. Do you know what may cause this sound? what need to be replaced?

Last one I promise, I know it is been discussed already but, when I turn on the AC or heater, the air that is coming out the vent is very weak, no matter what the fan speed is set at, and after a minute or two, the blower dies blowing no air at all. I have the automatic climate control one.
Someone mentioned that I have to replace the final stage register, but I see "final stage unit", and "blower resister" I dont see "final stage resister" in the catalog. which one do I have to replace?

Thanks all for viewing my lengthy message, any recommendation will be appreciated.

Tom

Manolito · 10-28-2008, 08:06 PM

You may be getting noise from your alternator, but on an e36, the most common source of noise is the belt tensioners. I have replaced all of them on both my e36s, and I have replaced the lower ones on the A/C belts several times (every couple of years).

The two names you see for the blower motor resistor should both be right. The '96 is a little tricky because they came with both types of A/C control, but you already figured that out.
A Blower Motor Resistor/Regulator; Final Stage Unit with 5 Pin Connection for your car should run about $85 on line, or $120 at the dealer.

green_bimmer · 10-29-2008, 02:05 PM

Thanks Manolito,

Just so do you think I should change both final stage unit and the blower register?

What are the symptoms when the resister goes bad vs when the final stage unit goes bad, do you know by any chance?

Manolito · 10-29-2008, 08:11 PM

What I meant was, "final stage unit", and "blower resister" sounded to me like two different names for the same part. If you are looking on Pelican, it appears that the blower resistor is the resistor for a heater with a manual control and the final stage unit is the one for your car. You can call them to verify.

Jeron · Jeron's Garage

+1 to everything Manolito said.

The part is usually called a final stage unit on the automatic climate control.

Other than simply an old brittle fan, a common cause of fan blade breakage is bad motor mounts. Bad engine mounts allow the enigne to move and the blades contact the radiator hose and break off.

green_bimmer · 10-30-2008, 09:39 AM

Thanks,

that actually makes sense, cause the fan breakage happened when I floored the gas pedal.

But, engine mount replacement sounds like alot of work..

Jeron · Jeron's Garage

Did the fan damage the radiator hoses? Does the fan clutch turn freely (a little stiff is normal)?

Motor mounts are not easy or hard. You have to raise the engine so you either buy/build a engine support or you lift it with the oil pan. I built an engine support out of a couple of 2x4's and a long threaded hook bolt.

green_bimmer · 10-30-2008, 01:47 PM

yeah, the fan clutch is rotating freely, I can just spin it with a finger. when I give it a push, it rotates freely about 40-50 degrees. Does that mean I have to change that? What do you think about the fan-delete modification?

When the fan broke, It took out the fan shroud, but it does not look like it did any damage on the radiator hose, I don't see any leak.

Thank you!

Tom Gwon

Jeron · Jeron's Garage

The fan clutch sounds good.

Only do the fan delete if you install and aftermarket electric. The cost will be about $100.
You need a relay and a thin fan (< 3") that is 14" or 16" in diameter. The 16" fan is a tight fit. The fan may come with a relay.