Weird OBD I Code - help

LWJ · 01-07-2009, 08:15 AM

Hello,

I have a 93 325 is. Mileage is at 200k. Parked it in the garage on Friday. No start on Sunday. It drove great on Friday. Now, when I turn the key, the motor turns over with very occasional random sparking sounds. I can smell raw gas out the tailpipe.

I checked the codes first thing. I got a dot / dash / dot / dash sequence that didn't seem like anything I have gotten in the past as there didn't seem to be a definite four digit sequence. Just the repetition of a quick flash (dot) and a longer one (dash). There was a pause in there I believe after the dash.

Being a real smart guy, I cleared the codes. Now I have a 1444 code, which is "codes cleared."

I tried to start it again thinking that perhaps the code would change. It didn't.

I read on PP and believe that I am dealing with a bad CPS. Just for fun I pulled relay #1 and knocked it hard to see if this might have a positive effect. It didn't.

So my real question before I call the tow truck is "what is this code?" If it is a CPS, I will have the mechanic do it. If it happens to be as simple as replacing a relay or similar, obviously I will do it.

Thank you in advance!

Larry

LWJ · 01-16-2009, 09:24 AM

Update - Yesterday I had it towed to the Mechanic. He started it with no changes!!! This is actually the second time this has happened and is driving me a little batty. He checked all codes and my DME / Engine codes are perfect.

ARG.

Freebirdrebirth · 01-16-2009, 03:17 PM

Sorry i dont know what the code is. If its the E36 325is the CPS stands for camshaft position sensor, wich is needed to syncronize the spark to the correct cylinder at the right time for good combustion aka (cylinder indentification sensor). the other sensor ckp is the crankshaft position sensor which is for rpm reference aka (engine speed sensor), for basic injector timing and spark timming it might start with a bad cps but not with a bad ckp. I think, although if its an E30 they are both together. anyhow since the sensor is basically a magnet with thin wire wound around it there isnt much that goes wrong with it (broken wire/ no continuity or broken magnet/ weak output signal) but when it does it can be interemitent. that is to say when it works it works great and when it doesnt it doesnt work at all. so if you had a code for your cmp wich is located at the top front of your motor, i would say just replace it. i doubt its a wiring issue but it could be, but all im saying is that ckp and cps/cmp sensor can fail intermitantly before pooping out perminatly, good luck

Makes > 1993 BMW > 325I > Ignition Parts > Camshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position/Reference Mark Sensor; Camshaft Position Sensor (Trigger Contact) For models with production date from 9/1992, E36 models.

Camshaft Position/Reference Mark Sensor; Crankshaft Position Sensor at Lower Timing Cover For E30 models.

This is what they look like:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_ELignt_pg3.htm#item12

willdy · 01-16-2009, 11:00 PM

I'm getting the same no code sequence, long, short, long, short, .long... It ran great until it wouldn't start one morning. Fuel pump works when ignition is turned and it has spark at the plugs. I'm thinking that the DME is failing because it isn't sending a valid code. . I've read that solder joints in the DME might cause intermittent probs which might explain your problem Larry but my '94 325IC won't start at all. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
Sincerely,
Mike

coolbear1 · 07:49 PM

I have a 93 also with high milage (280k) and have had to replace my Crankshaft position sensor twice.
The only three times in 16 years, when the car would not run at all, it was the crank sensor two times and fuel pump once.
I have also found the dash code blink thing to be unreliable.
I invested in a code reader and beleive it to be a good investment.

LWJ · 01-22-2009, 09:52 AM

So the update is that I picked it up from the mechanic yesterday. He has the Big Kahuna code reader. There were no bad codes to be found!!! It runs like a champ.

My only advice to Willdy is put a charger on it and crank the hell out of it??? I really don't get this and I am usually pretty good about these things. The good news is that an inconsistent car = a wife that gives the green light on finding another!

Sorry I can not contribute any positive thoughts. I do still think it was the CPS. Although the DME solder conneciton makes sense as well.

Good luck.

Larry

willdy · 02-10-2009, 05:38 AM

Finally got it running again. After replacing the camshaft pos sensor, it started very easily but wouldn't keep running without constantly revving the engine between 1500 - 4000 rpm. It would die w constant throttle at every rpm and was backfiring. I was thinking that it was running lean and guessed that the dme was bad also. The stomp test wasn't giving any codes so I ordered an obd2 tester and waited a couple weeks for it to arrive. It showed a MAF error so I checked for leak and ordered one on Ebay. A week later it arrived but it still ran the same. I cleared the codes and thought I could limp it around a little to get a new code. After about a block it started running perfectly. The cam sensor had allowed it to start but I guess it was stuck in limp mode until I drove it around. I had run it for 15-20 mins in park but it needed to be driven. I'm suspicious that the transmission sensor might be intermittently faulty but it's running well w no codes. Thanks to all.

LWJ · 04-01-2009, 07:28 PM

Ok. Further update. The car has been running great since I got it back. Took it up to Seattle and back this weekend and it ran like a champ. Parked it and took my Suburban to work Monday and Tuesday to get the emissions checked. This morning. No startee. I followed my mechanic's lead and cranked the hell out of it. It took a BUNCH of time and I thought the battery would be toast, but it actually started. Who knows what is up? Anyone want a goodlooking old car?