Driver side window madness

[Ghetto914]

Soon after picking up my 1994 318is, I began having issues where on hitting sizable bumps, my driver side widow would do the "tip" down as if I were opening the door, causing irritating wind noise. It used to require a severe bump, and the window would reset itself. Now, however, barely a pea would make this thing drop, and the only way I can get it to go up is to firmly pull the door handle, and the window will "kick" back up...usually. Sometimes it goes up, then back down. There's nothing more maddening than the sound of wind noise coming over my turned-up stereo. I took my door apart, to try and see whether there was anything obviously wrong. I immediately noticed that someone has previously torn the door up, likely trying to get to the same issue. with no interior door panel, I close the door and, surely, the window does NOT raise like it should. When I give a firm tug on the metal crossbar to which the regulator is attached, the window goes up. I figure either 1) the regulator just sucks, 2) the door frame got warped somehow causing poor alignment with the regulator/raising arms, or 3) the door latch sensor keeps telling the door that it is open.

Any logical diagnosis here? I really don't have the time and patience to fight this window any longer, and I'd prefer not to have to resort to taking the car to the shop.

By the way, who's silly idea was it to not have door frames and add just one more thing on this car that can break????

[Ghetto914]

nothing, really? I may try pulling on the door frame, I truly cannot tell if it is a worn regulator or the geometry of the door that is causing this problem. It seems the motor itself is fine, just the window-tilt function that is goofed.

[coolbear1]

I am a little confused. Are you saying the window is going up and down electricaly when you hit bumps? or is it moving around in the track?
If it is like mine, the window button for the driver only has full up/down function built in to the window button in the center console. If it is going up and down, the switch, swtch plug, or associated wiring would be suspect. If it is moving around in the track, check the track for play, or loose bolts.

[Ghetto914]

I guess to clarify, this is the actual window, or maybe the door that is the culprit. If I roll my window down, then use both hands on the door to pull it very firmly closed, I have ALMOST zero problems. Large bumps, or serious "undulations" in the highway will seem to cause the window to drop and then the motor kicks in and puts it back up... usually. If I only use the normal door handle, it seems that the door just isn't closed enough. I've wondered if half the problem here is the door or latch needing adjustment, combined with a regulator that is becoming weak? I did inspect for missing/loose screws/bolts/rivets, and found none. I am feeling more and more this is two problems that combine to make one big PITA.

[JhwShark]

Ghetto man,
When you say picked it up...from what or is this a purchase picked up??

Is the door seal new? If so, it could cause the door to not close well initally??
Jon

[Ghetto914]

By pick up I meant when I purchased the vehicle. As the car already had a good 240k plus miles, I do not believe the door seals are new. I'm wondering if I can somehow adjust the latching mechanism in the door. I tried WD40 to see if it was just sticky, however that has not helped. Would adjusting the latch inwards or outwards assist in the latch/window trigger in closing all the way?

As an aside, my passenger door works perfectly. No need to apply force, I can gently close the door, and the window will do its thing. Perhaps a few pictures, and maybe a video would assist?

PSPS, the Ghetto914 this was due to my 914 I drove in high school... It had one of those dual outlet "Ansa" style mufflers, and one side rusted and fell off at school. Due to the horrendous sound the car made when driving home that day it was dubbed the Ghetto Porsche at school... Moniker kinda stuck

[coolbear1]

Still not clear. Is your car a convertable?

What do you mean by "no door frames" and why are you thinking about pulling on them if you don't have any?

Is your door out of alignment? are your hinge bolts loose? does the door hinge have play in it
if you open it and pick up on it? have you unpluged the window switch to see if it still does it?

[Ghetto914]

I will go out and check the actual door hinges and such. I think a video or pictures will better show what I'm talking about here


And what I mean about the door frame/window frame is that the door does not have a full window frame, as every other car I've owned does. As you know the window pushes into the body of the car, hence the need for the window to drop when you open it. I just do not understand why this was necessary in the design of the car. Was it weight savings? Why the extra moving part that increases likelihood of failure?

[coolbear1]

Your car must be a 2 door.
4 doors have window frames. I did have a Z3, it did not have a window frame, and I had lots of problems with the window. It would go too high before it stopped. The window regulator had an adjusting screw that stops it's upward travel, 4 door cars don't require this due to the window frame.

A weld on a threaded stud that mounts the window regulator in the center of the door had broken.
The broken mount caused simila rdoor closing, and air problems to what you discribe, due to the window going too high, but the window did not go down on its own.

[AZKC]

Sounds like the switch on the striker in the door jam might be acting up. It controls the little up and motion. Its a small plastic square button the moves in and out. If you push it in Manually the window goes up about 1/2 inch, when you let go it moves down. I had to rplace both of mine for similar problems.

[rnstout356]

I've had this problem on two different E36s. If you want to do in on the cheap, just swap the passenger and driver side striker/switches. They are the same, but they are "upside down" from each other. The cheap plastic switch wears on the opposite side and will give you a little while longer before you have to buy one or two.
They unscrew with the two big screws and have a plug on the back. Just be careful not to let the wire and connector drop back down into the hole. Don't ask how I know.