[Zeke]

I think there is some good advice here and some things that will cause extra work. If you prime with a temporary primer, aren't you faced with the same problem getting it off for the good stuff? If you use the good stuff, you will get protection for a limited time, but not so liitle that you have to worry. Unless you just let the car sit. Therein lies its own problem; not monitoring the metal.

I vistited a well known 356 restoration shop last Fri. and the painter there leaves the metal bare until his first primer. He uses polyesther. Others here like epoxy for the first primer, but that is not a surfacing primer, i.e., for block sanding. The 356 painter states that etching primers are for non ferous metals. His opinion, not mine. BTW, the 356 shop is 20 blocks from the ocean, it's humid here too.

One thing you must do is metal prep before any priming. This entails washing the car with POR MetalPrep or similar and folowing with alcohol or one of the profeesional washes lie Dupont Prepsolve. If you monitor the metal and wash it down with the acidic metal prep, theorectically, you could leave the metal bare for months while working with the restoration.

My take is that each job is different, you have to go with what works in your situation. Here's my plan for the exterior: Hand strip and local blast rusty pitted area. Followed by metal prep and epoxy primer and move to the next area. When all stripping is done, prime all areaa with polyesther sanding primer and block out/repair as necessary. Seal and paint.