Originally Posted by John Rogers
Well might be able to help some here. Did the shop give you a detailed list of all that was done WITH ALL the measurements they took when rebuilding the engine? They should have but it may have been a shop that just slapped parts together and let things sit where they may? Otherwise it might be too much crank end play or cam shaft end play and the seal(s) may have been blown. At any rate you will have to pull the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix things. To help with that, break out the welder or some means to fasten a "U" bolt to the car beside the rear of the engine so you can then fasten a chain across the bottom of the engine to support it when the trans comes off. Then disconnect the battery since the starter has to come off and you do not want hot wires dangling under there.
Do you have an impact wrench either a Harbor Freight battery one or a pneumatic airline one since that is the best way to loosen everything. Do you have a floor jack that can reach and support the transmission to roll it "aft" to clear the input shaft, otherwise get one. Do you have a new clutch cable since it has to be unhooked so might as well replace it if it is over a couple years old. Do you have a clutch alignment tool as you'll need one when the clutch goes back in. Do you have a set of flywheel bolts (they are special) and a torque wrench since you should NEVER reuse them!!! Do you have one of those large metal drip pans (mine is 4 x 8 feet), you'll need one. Lastly, I hope you have sockets, extensions and wrenches to allow disassembly easily?
There is a step by step in the Haynes 914 manual, you have one I hope, that covers the order to do all the things to get into the seal areas. At the race track I have swapped transmissions in about 2 hours total with a helper but of course I was a lot younger in my racing days, we also have replaced clutch cables in an hour which is what the 914-4 or 914-6 were designed to be able to do once you see how easy it is and the steps needed to do things.
The main order of things is:
- Jack up the car and set it on stands.
- Disconnect the battery.
- Disconnect the starter wires, remove the starter.
- Support the rear of the engine, NO jack, either a chain as I mentioned or stand.
- Disconnect clutch cable, tie it out of the way.
- Disconnect both axles, tie them up. You can remove both rear wheels to give more room, but I always left them on just in case!
- Loosen then remove the speedo cable connection, tie cable end out of the way.
- Remove muffler, plug the exhaust openings with shop rags.
- Support the transmission with a jack.
- Loosen then after checking all is okay, pull trans mount bolts.
- Slightly lower the rear of the transmission.....just slightly.
- Make sure the engine is okay and nothing is hitting a firewall then loosen bottom then top transmission mount bolts and pull transmission back slightly, if all feels smooth then remove all 4 bolts and slide trans back then lower it out of the way.
- Remove bell housing bolts then pull that chunk of alloy out of the way.
- Look at the inside for oil, ETC, if it is running down from behind the flywheel then pull the clutch pressure plate, disk then flywheel.
- Replace the seal for the crank if needed.
- Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly. Remember DO NO REUSE FLYWHEEL BOLTS as then there is as good chance they will snap. I had that happen on my 2.8L big four and it cost me a race at Willow Springs and the mechanic that worked my car his job and he got black listed!
Did all that sound about right Dave? It has been a while for me and I am getting old
John
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