[SCadaddle]

In your second video with the right rear spinning with the engine running and in gear, unless you've got a LSD I would imagine you could either chock that right rear or put it on the ground and the left rear would spin. Somebody else can chime in on that.

Easiest way to determine a sticky caliper is to go for a drive then get out and put your open hand/fingers on the wheels near the center of the wheel. The dragging ones will be considerably warmer than the ones that aren't.

The Ate caliper rebuild kits are very inexpensive and you can use the tutorial from the PMB website to clean them up and put the kits in them yourself. Of course the tutorial is going to take subtle jabs at you for being cheap and not using their services, but it is what it is. I recently refurbished the calipers on my SC and it is a wonderful thing to have a car that actually rolls. The one deviation to the PMB tutorial/videos that I made is that I used the permatex silicone based caliper grease in the bores that is orange in appearance vs. PMB using the permatex synthetic based grease that is purple. I surmise this is due to dated material and the silicone grease is supposedly a newer product. I spent the majority of the time in really cleaning up that 1/4" or so of the bores that is outboard of the piston seal. That is where things get corroded and hangs up the pistons under the dust boots. Some may argue and suggest just using brake fluid as a lube to get the pistons back in the caliper, but this is the one spot you don't want brake fluid because 1) it is outside of the hydraulic brake system and 2) it will just promote corrosion leading to sticky calipers......again. My rear left caliper had got to the point of holding the car on an incline.