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yes barnacles" ;-) It'll look a lot better cleaned up but I might as well wait till I replace the gasket too.
the only time in my life Ive taken a car to a mechanic is a few times when I was stuck and it was cold out or to do wheel alignment. I'm fine taking it all apart myself but I don't know everything about it. I dont see being afraid of replacing any part in the car. I might need a special tool or procedures or have questions along the way.
I'll do the timing belt and belts for the balances and the oil seals in the area. should I change the tensioner as a matter of course? I saw the article about the bolt breaking and wondered if that was due to over torquing it or if that is a common failure. I don't want to risk pistons and valves colliding.
I'll change the oil and probably it will need a fuel pump since all the gas leaked out and years prior he said it failed to start, then it sat looking pretty in his driveway.
I purchased the two back bumper ends since at least one is all torn and the other may not return even with hot water treatment, they weren't in the best of shape but nothing a refinish wont fix, at least they are not all cracked and bent.
I'm on the lookout for the back bumper shocks since at least one is pushed in and stuck. I can try to pull it back out but the jury is out on whether that's any good or if the gas charge leaked out.
It looks like there is some red trim below the back bumper and maybe that needs to come off first.
after oil change and the belts and probably a fuel pump I can start it and see what's holding me back. I'd like to drive it if even just around the block to see how it shifts etc.
I saw the article about taking apart the rear CV joints or U joints or whatever you call them to clean and lube them. I can handle that, seems like something I should do. Ill bleed the braking system too , is dot 3 ok or should it be dot 4? In my 66 Volvo I changed it to silicone and the clutch too. the clutch cylinders seemed to fail regularly but swapping to silicone made them last 20 years. I dont see anything wrong with switching the clutch to silicone as it never gets hot. I might need to change the rubber parts as a part of that if they are available.
I now that the silicone also boils at a lower temp and so if you brake hard you can boil the brakes. on the other hand as it's a bit of a collectable car I probably wont be driving it like I'm racing either and may store it more than drive it. The plus side is that it doesn't absorb water and so after sitting it wont rust the cylinders etc so much, and it doesn't eat the paint. when I switched my old volvo over I also changed all the rubber in the braking system so I was able to clean everything thoroughly. I assume that others wont recommend switching to silicone for the braking system.
the motor mounts seem pricey and it's old so I dont know if there is a workaround to that issue. It probably makes sense to go changing a lot of the rubber parts. maybe i can get a kit with polyurethane bushings without a lot of cost?
headlights dont open, I don't see that getting too complex. stuck relay maybe.
I think there is some trim just at the top of the back window that's in the back of the car I think i can replace that if it's even important.
it does have the rubber spoiler thing , intact but it's a bit degraded maybe it could be replaced along with some window seals etc.
is there a place I can download a real shop manual? I dont know if it can be copied or not. Maybe there is a CD or something I can order? I have the Hanes one, its a help but a real shop manual and parts book would probably make things easier.
tires look great but i dont trust them, too old. I've had sidewalls rip right out, not fun.
I think my first objective is to clean it up a bit do the basics, and see if I can fire it up then I can assess what's important better.
Im really excited about the car, every time I see it I get a little tingle and imagine driving it. right now all I can do is sit in it and make racing noises ;-) It's going to be a lot of fun.
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