[917_Langheck]

Remove the idle air control valve and clean with electronic parts cleaner.

Remove the air flow meter and clean with electronic parts cleaner, minding the thermistor in the passage way.

Turn clockwise the idle air bypass screw at the front of the air flow meter and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then remove the entire screw to inspect the o-ring integrity. If bad, replace the o-ring. Clean the orifice. Replace the screw to the prior setting. Should land some place between 2 and 3 turns out from bottom.

Make sure the auxiliary air valve is operational. If not working properly it may result in high idle at working temperature (stuck open), which the iacv and computer then may try to fight to correct.

If you are running an O2 sensor, and it's anywhere near 60k mi old, it's time to replace.


These are all the items I addressed in ridding a hunting cold start idle (reduced from 4 to 2.75 turns on a new idle bypass screw) and the just off idle parking lot hurky jerky drive (new O2 sensor finished off the last of the jerky throttle).


That's all predicated on the idea that you're running a complete motronic system.