FWIW - - I've been twiddling my 40 IDA for a while now and I 've found that the mixture adjustment is pretty subtle. I was at the point you describe earlier this year, except that my transition fromidles to mains was never a problem. Lot's of popping and fartingthough. You mention this:
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Following an excellent thread from T Bird, I've tuned them until they just pop and then back them out a half turn. I've also tried this at Bruce Anderson's recommended 1200 rpm.
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It sounds as though you are may still be too lean. My experience is that if you dial the screws in until the engine starts to pop, then you've gone too far already. I've found it better to stop when I just hear the idle start to waver a bit. Then I give the screws a good half turn out, maybe 3/4 turn.
Provided the float levels are good (you did measure the needle valve drop when you rebuilt the carbs right) then I would start by giving all the screws another full turn out, then drive around. If the popping through the carbs goes away, then I (you) are on the right track. You gotta be patient, and you gotta remember that there are six throats and each one has to be tuned and that it won't run right until they all are right. Close you eyes when you are turning thos escrews in and only move an 1/8th of a turn at a time. Use the force you know. Popping through the carbs is lean, popping through the exhaust is rich.
A last word of caution - early on I figured rich was better than lean so I turned the screws al the way out and went for a drive. It wasn't long until the engine was misfiring all over the place. This was real scary until I figured out I'd foulled one or more plugs. It sounded at first like I had a blocked idle passage.
Part of the joy of weber carbs is getting the tune right and then bragging to anyone who'll listen about how you were able to dial in the dual triple carbs on your Porsche. This is best done in a nonchalant "it was easy" kind of way.
DON'T GIVE UP!
