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I don't have the Frere book, I think it would save some development time to look at the factory brace.
They built the car in the first place!
Basically I'm sort of doing what you guy's are planning to do, I've bought a pre-fab brace bar though(for a ford or something) & making some brackets.
Luckily I have a friend who is a machinist at a local marine engineers, so bushes, fixings etc. are not a problem.
Not convinced that bracing the shock tops is the way to go. I'm sure it does move but the rubber top is there for a reason I'm sure. It would be easy for the factory to stiffen this up, so why haven't they? You have to consider the make up of the shock too.
It is simply a damper and not really designed to be used as a brace to preserve the steering geometry.
Basically I'm applying a bit of feedback from strut to strut by linking the camber adjustment bolts on the inside of the wing.
When one moves so does the other one.
The alignment shop agree too.
If it helps I'll produce some drawings of what I have done & post them up, it could be food for thought.
Being a engineer I am more than aware of the fine line between improvement & actually causing a different problem with your fix.
The brace I bought is tubular & quite beefy.
I really think the brace bar should be box section as the loading is compressional.
The mounting brackets I've seen, generally, seem to be too flimsy.
Can't wait to get my car back together & post some driving impressions.
JG
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