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Absolutely no need to use expensive, fancy studs. Use regular factory steel studs. Used ones, if you can find them cheap. They don't break. These are the studs on the intake side of your engine. The unreliable Dilivar ones are on the exhaust side. So.....you only need twelve of them. You will have to remove the cylinders and use HEAT (much more than propane heat) to get the red loctite to let go of the studs. Do a Search and read. Chase the threads and use red loctite to install the new ones to the proper height.
You'll have the heads, pistons and cylinders off the engine. You'll have those parts on the bench and all that's left is a case with rods poking out. At a minimum, I would take the rods off and replace the rod bearings. In reality, I would split the case and replace the main bearings also. And inspect the oil pump and crank. At this point, all the parts that should be at least measured in a full rebuild will be on your bench. Do this. Take them to a machine shop and have them measured, reconditioned, magnafluxed or all three. The rod big ends can be machined as new, and I would do this. The wrist pin bushings can be replaced, and I would do this too. The valves should be measured and if their shafts are too worn, replaced. Seats are ground. Guides are replaced. Yes, this will cost you some money. For me, it was about $3K. That was all new valves, guides, seals, bearings, etc.
This is the time to measure and ensure your engine internals are in good shape. If you do this, you will be building a quarter-million mile engine. It will have better valve guides than original for sure, maybe better rings and bearings. I would also have the machine shop balance those engine parts within an inch of their lives. If you do this, your engine will be pretty happy. It will spin like crazy.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel)
Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco"
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