Thread: Rod Bearings
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stormcrow stormcrow is offline
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Stockbridge, GA
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As long as the engine is out do it all. splitting the case is no major problem. Now if you want to remove the connecting rod before you split it, you can do it.

You will need a 13mm socket with an extension to reach the nut. The crankshaft needs to be tdc when you do this. Once the nuts are removed, the connecting rod will come off and the other half will stay on the shaft but you have to use one hand to pull the connecting rod, and the other hand to hold the other half with the bolts in it. Otherwise, it will rotate and the bolts will drop inside the case and you will have to fish for them.

The thing about working on the engine is to learn about it while you do it. I took about a year to do the engine rebuild. Marked all the parts with a vibro-etch and laid them all out. Never did a P-engine before although I had done several v-8, v-6, four cylinder rebuilds.

As I have stated in a previous post, the tolerances are a lot closer and I can see why. The engine is well balanced and since the rebuild, mine runs like a top.

Parts for my rebuild came to approximately $1,200.00. It is a great achievement to disassemble one of these engines and put it back together and have it run. It gave me great satisfaction and pleasure knowing that I could do it and do it right.

Steve
Old 01-25-2002, 03:08 PM
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