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When I was trying to diagnose the noise initially my primary suspicion was a wrist pin clip mis installed, forgotten, fallen out. The noise seemed to be prevalent in the cylinder as opposed to the head or block. But this of course could be misleading. But definitely isolated to locailty of #1. All other cylinders very quiet compared to #1 which had the source of the tock noise.
The wrist pin was quite tight to remove. Because I have #2&3 still intact, I could not drive it out and had to pull it out in direction of cam chain side. It was quite a struggle and I had to make up a tool to slip down the bore of the pin to hook the lip on the other end. Several goes tapping with hammer to free. it. I don't think there is any detectable movement there.
I have not removed the bearing cap at this point - but could do so. Trying to disturb as little of engine as possible. New bearings had been installed. I was concerned as #1 was the first rod I torqued up, and later wondered if I had put to much lube paste on this cap - realising the clearances are 1 thou basically. Wondered if it torqued down properly. I used less paste on others. But looking at Waynes book, there is a fair smear over the surfaces.
I could lift the rod, but am still wondering about the 5 mm play in the cam end float. Both cam sprockets show no wear on edges. The shims sit behind thrust washer. I used the shims that came out originally - which from memory tied in with Waynes book - 3 one side, 4 other. Since there was no sprocket wear when I pulled it down, I put it back same way. No sprocket wear now - but I do have about 5 mm end float. Can't find any sign of wear in this area that might be origin of noise. Definitely not valve clearance - already re did them originally looking for noise, and checked when motor came out.
Regards
Alan
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