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AutoBahned
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
Posts: 55,993
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an astute girlfriend can do this & it is much more pleasurable than a doctor visit
for your car's ball joints:
Ball Joints
Inspection
Use a pry bar and see if the strut moves upward when you pry between the control arm and bottom of the strut. If there is play, change them. While robust, they wear. They are not hard to change but be prepared to use some force to unscrew the retaining collar if they are original.
- with the wheel off...give a good tug on the brake disc at 12-6 o'clock and again at 9-3 o'clock. Feel for tightness.
- place a crow-bar or similar tool between the ball joint and the attachment point and "wiggle" it up and down and check for noticable movement. Shouldn't be any.
As the ball joint wears, it first has up and down movement. So if you can move the control arm up and down in relation to the strut, then they are tired.
You may try pulling the boot and looking in to see if they are dry and have the tell-tale "red dust" of metal-on-metal wear from being dry.
- Jack the front of the car off the ground and have someone hold the steering wheel for you. Grab and shake the front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock, if you feel some play, the ball joint is shot. 3 and 9 o'clock will check tie rod.
- With the front jacked up, turn the front wheels to full lock while watching the ball joint. If it’s worn you’ll see vertical movement when the wheels hit full lock.
- with the steering wheel locked...do a 9-3 o'clock again and look for slop or play at the tie-rod ends… also at the opposite ends near the steering rack.
Look around for torn boots, rubber pieces, etc.
Replacement
Parts
Tools
$50 socket from Pelican or… Go to Discount Auto with the ball joint nut (you should install new ones also) look for a 4X4 hub socket that'll fit. It may be a little sloppy but put a jack under it while you torque. It should only run you about $10.
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