[304065]

They are slightly open so they don't seize against the bore. Here is how to do correlation.

Remove all the throttle rods. DONT MIX THEM UP! Put a piece of tape on the center of each one and clearly mark 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, 5-6.

Start the engine and let it idle. It should not go above idle speed as all the throttles should be at their stops. If it does not idle at 900 RPM, go BACK to CMA and check ignition advance.

Take a synchrometer reading on each. Adjust the air bleed screws. Obviously, IDLE is where the screws make a difference, they bypass air around the closed throttle plate.

Stop and think at this point, are the cylinders balanced? If you cannot get them to balance with normal adjustment of the bleed screws, that means that your throttle shafts are leaking and it is time to have them rebuilt ($1200 or so).

If they are balanced, your next step is to set the rods. Ideally you should be able to snap all the rods back on to the ball pins WITHOUT moving the idle. If you attach one and the speed picks up, then loosen the lock nut, spin the shaft to lengthen or shorten the rod and tighten the nut. You can use light oil on the balls (thanks Grady!) at this point, and use Bosch distributor grease as the final step. Again, if you can't get them to balance out, then either the rods or rod ends need replacement.

OK, now you have an engine that will idle with more or less correct geometry of the rods. You proabably don't have protractors, but if you did, you would find that they are pretty close, within a degree or so. Depends on how worn the ball sockets and balls are.

Now repeat the drill at 3000 rpm, this is really a function of the rod geometry, not the air screws.

Good luck!