[moneymanager]

Try gravity. The way brakes were bled for the first 75 years we had cars. Before someone had found new and innovative ways to get many of us to open our wallets.
Many of you, especially those with early less complicated cars, can bleed your brakes easily in less than 30 minutes without an assistant, and without spending more than $3 on equipment. Caveat: my 73 911 lacks a hydraulic clutch so I don’t know if this procedure can be adapted for use with non-mechanical clutches.

You will need: brake fluid, six or seven feet of plastic tubing sized to fit snugly over the nipple on the brake caliper (mine uses 3/16” internal diameter tubing but check yours), and an appropriate small box wrench to open & close the bleed valve. (Sears makes small 6 sided combo wrenches which are useful for recalcitrant cases; the bleed valves on my car are 7mm but later cars I believe are 8mm.)

Here’s the procedure: jack the car up, support it on jack stands or wood blocks, and pull the wheels so you can get at the calipers. Or do one wheel at a time if you want.
Loosen the brake fluid container cover in the trunk.
At the first wheel, position the plastic tubing so it hangs straight down (from your garage roof or door or a door or even a stick or spouse) to the caliper. Slide the box wrench over the nipple, slide the plastic tubing over the nipple, and open the nipple with the wrench.
Watch the fluid rise in the tubing until it reaches the height of the brake fluid reservoir in the car, maybe 15 inches. This will take 3-4 minutes. Tap the caliper a few times with a rubber hammer or block of wood if you want. Watch the tubing for bubbles, especially when you start. If they keep on coming after the level in the tube has risen 12-15 inches, close the nipple, remove the tubing, drain it into a paper cup, and repeat. Assuming you are bubble free after 2-3 inches of fluid have drained, however, do this once; tighten the wrench, pull the tubing off while holding a paper cup to catch the fluid, and move on to the next wheel.
Keep an eye on the fluid container and replenish the brake fluid when it's down more than an inch.
Do all four wheels & again replenish the fluid.
You are done. Gravity has done all the work. You cannot damage your master cylinder with this technique, and you don’t need a helper (if you have a garage or a tree or can rig a stick to hang the tubing from.) This should take you a maximum of 5 minutes per wheel once the car is up and the wheels are off. Forget the idea that there are bubbles all thru your lines and that pressure will somehow push them out but not the fluid. A pressure bleeder only moves any bubbles and fluid thru the lines more quickly. But they travel together. So gravity will do the job perfectly if time isn’t the object.
This process works because nearly all the bubbles generated by driving around and heating the brakes excessively are found at the very top of the caliper near the bleed valve…in effect where the heat is. They are not, contrary to popular belief, dispersed throughout the brake lines. Bubbles rise to the top: they come up into the brake fluid reservoir and evaporate into the atmosphere, or they rise to the top of the caliper, where this gravity method quickly liberates them.
Depending on how much fluid you withdraw each time, you will find that the fluid is fully replaced every 10-15 bleedings. I track my car 5-6 times per year; bleeding pretty much replaces all the fluid over a couple of years, as recommended by many experts. So forget pressure, fancy valves, assistants who hold the brake pedal down, etc etc and do it the easy way!