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Here is the procedure I used. This was for a stock 3.2 engine .
1. Check linkage at the throttle body and make sure there is .04" of gap between the idle switch.
2. Disconnect main linkage coming out of the car and adjust the linkage between engine and tranny to get the 1-2mm of slack as indicated by the book. The key point here is that this gap is created by pushing in the reverse lever by hand. If you just pull and release, there will not be any gap until you push the lever back.
3. Once this is done, you need to adjust the long linkage and the pedal at the same time. I basically used a bungee cord to hold open the throttle body to full throttle. Then I used a brick to hold the pedal down. I then went under the car to see how much distance I had between the ball of the reverse lever and the socket on the main linkage.
From there I basically had to shorten the main linkage at both locations and then lengthened the accellerator rod to get maximum travel distance.
I then tested both idle switch and full throttle switch to make sure they were working correctly. I really like using my Ohm meter with a beeping sound. Then I can be in the car and just listen for the beep to see when the full throttle sensor gets activated. On my car it is about 3/4 of the way down.
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Jeff C
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