I highly recommend changing the CV boot/axle on your own. It is not that difficult of a job. About 2-3 hours of work.
Remove these parts in the following order: tire, brake caliper (tie it to the strut so it is out of the way), remove the rotor, and then
remove the bolt from the rear control arm on the chassis side (this arm runs from the chassis to the swivel bearing, and it requires a 16mm socket on one side of the bolt, and an 18mm socket on the other side. Do not remove it from the ball joint. All you need to do is remove that single bolt from that arm.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE ANY OTHER ARMS. Other posts may tell you that you need to, but you really don't. I've done this twice already.
Now use a 3 jaw gear puller (rent it from autozone, checker, or kragen) to pull the swivel bearing apart from the axle. The dust cap WILL separate from the swivel bearing, unless you get the special BMW tool which will utilize the lug holes for grasping instead of claws around the dust cap. It is not a big deal, it will take you about 5 minutes to remove the dust cap and toss it (unless you can weld it).
Do not hammer the spindle at the end of the axle as it will damage the threads. Use the gear puller!
Once it is pressed through enough, you will be able to pull on the swivel bearing towards you and will be able to remove the axle.
Now you will have to hammer the outer joint off from the main portion of the axle so that you can get your cv boots on. Ensure that it is aligned straight with the rest of the axle so it will come straight off. I used two 2x4's to help with this.
Once you have the new boots on, make sure you get the outer joint back on ALL the way. Now you can go back to putting the car back together. You will have to use your 36mm axle nut socket and sacrifice a 3-5" extension in order to hammer the swivel bearing back onto the spindle. This is a two person part of the job, and about 15.7 to 16mm of the spindle should be protruding once you are through so that you can get the axle on far enough. It'll take you about 5-10 minutes to do this with lots of hammering.
Tip: Have the person hammering apply pressure with one hand onto the swivel bearing towards the vehicle so there is less flexing with each pound. Have the assistant hold the extended 36mm socket with channel locks so they don't get hit.
Put the rotor, brake caliper, and axle nut on now. You can place something into the rotor vent so that it will not continue to spin when you apply pressure with the axle nut when putting it on. Once it gets down to fully torqing it down, you should put the tire back on without the center cap and continue.
The rear control arm needs to be torqued to 84 ft/lbs, and the axle nut needs to be set to 300 ft/lbs. Use a breaker bar and the pipe from your jack as a lever and apply all of your weight for the axle nut. It should suffice, if you weigh enough.
You are now good to go.