Quote:
Originally Posted by s5uewf
Eric, I removed the valve completely and saved it. I plugged the top outlet and replaced the dual banjo fitting with the single banjo fitting on the inlet.
I did leave the wiring in place to the FV and noticed it buzzes for a few minutes after start, then it stops. Since it seems from these threads it should always buzz, I am assuming the valve is bad or the relay. I can always reinstall if required but others imply it is unnecessary and I do not think the Euro 930's use this device...?
I did call LA Dismantlers and they have no used FV's and Pelican offers none...so if it is bad I guess I need to find a way to not use it.
I did adjust the CO using the hex key. I got idle CO adjusted to around 14. I took it for a spin and noticed with very light pedal the AFR's are in the high 14's maybe bouncing into 15 if at all. With any boost the AFR's drop lower ranging downward to the 11's. All seemed "acceptable" except I want the light pedal AFR's to be lower.
Also, I had to turn in the idle air screw quite a bit. Once I got back from my test drive, the RPM's at idle were climbing past 1,000 RPM so I had to turn the idle air screw further - it is turned pretty much all the way in now. So, I obviously still have some sort of issue to solve:
As JFairman said removing the FV would require re adjusting flow within the fuel head. If so, then that would explain what I am now seeing. Though I have reached a reasonable AFR, my idle air is just about closed and my idle speed is higher than I want. Now, this also affects cold starting...It is very hard to start now. Use to jump to life with a bare touch of the key.
I have tested for air leaks around the gaskets, intake, etc. and found none.
So, either I have a fuel restriction (perhaps due to situation JFairman explains), or somewhere else. Or perhaps one of the AAR or AAV or other valves are sticking open and letting in more air.
I ordered a CIS test kit along with fuel filter, sealing washers, CIS manual, ... in hopes I can verify fuel delivery, verify pressures, and assure myself the fuel side is setup right. Then, if things are not settled out, I can walk through the air side of things...I plan to test the AAR valve next - the thing hooked to the intercooler on the right front side via that larger hose...
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I was hoping Jim would chime in, as he has tremendous working knowledge on this particular subject (upper and lower chambers and the like).
Emery, I'm suprised that your AFR's don't go as lean as mine when I "unplugged" the freq valve. Also suprised at your idle air correction screw being turned all the way in and still have high idle. Air leak somewhere, one would think.
Jim, thanks (again) for the explanation. I"ve been meaning to balance the flow to the injectors one of these days, so if ever I intend to do without the freq valve, then it would be a must. Meanwhile, she stays plugged in!