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ONLY if the leak is caused by broken studs - ie at head gasket. You should be able to work this out from faulty cyl number and where studs broken - and gunk at base of same head.
If this doesn't match up, problem is internal - ring or valve. If same cylinder as with broken stud, you have to pull the head and cylinder anyway. So very little extra work and cost (with a small amount of luck).
Alan
You really should be replacing all studs - the undamaged ones as well.
In which case you will need to remove all pistons/cylinders, as well as each head. If you did a leakdown you could identify if problem cylinder was head or piston. Then you can leave all other 5 p/c's alone, and possibly the 6th intact - ie leave pistons in cylinders - do not disturb. If is valve then you simply need to have those valves refaced (not expensive).
If you were keen, you could clean up the other faces with a light lapping - but with those numbers, you could get away with just doing the bad cylinder.
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Last edited by Alan L; 08-12-2009 at 04:27 PM..
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