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LeakProof LeakProof is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Palatine, IL. (N/W Chicago Burbs)
Posts: 208
Thanks again guys,

I should be more specific, My final torque is actually 39 ft lb and not 40 ft lb.

I decided on 39 ft lb, with bolts & nuts pre dipped in Marvel Mystery Oil.

3- brand new Craftsmen torque wrenches, for accuracy (didn't help on the over torque).

Wayne's book, step 1- 14.6 ft lb/ step 2, 90 degrees +/- 2 degrees.
Do not have a degree gage and was advised that this was not necessary.

Service Manual states a torque check of 50-55nm (37-41 ft lb). 37+2 = 39.

Performance Handbook states: 37-40.5 ft lb with mixture of moly lube & motor oil.
I Was hesitant on doing this because one guy on this site was snapping all his rod bolts with this type of lubricant method.

Also I was told by a Porsche engine builder that factory bolts are fine for street use.
My race car buddy disagrees saying these rod bolts are the weakest link. But I'm not racing.

Also I believe, an expert P-builder who contributes to this site uses the 10,20,30,40 ft. lb. alternating torque method.

Thats how I came to these conclusions, hopefully, I'm not screwing up to bad.

Leakproof.
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Last edited by LeakProof; 12-14-2009 at 10:08 AM..
Old 12-14-2009, 08:13 AM
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