And the BS goes on about 1/2" tools for the axle-nut.
SC or Carrera, you want a 3/4"-drive set-up because both types have a very high torque to make sure that the dual bearings are correctly fastened.
I put a ? behind the 30mm on my earlier reply since it is normal practice to check the nut size and get the right socket before starting.
As mentioned above, you may find 30 or 32 mm and when there is that much rust showing you obviously need to use penetrating oil to break the bond created by the rust on the threads and on the mating-surface.
It's quite alright to use a SAE socket instead of Metric on the castle-nut as long as everything is 3/4"-drive.
If someone was lucky enough to open it with 1/2" stuff, it meant that the nut wasn't on there with the right torque; in most cases, 1/2"-drives don't cut it.
3/4"-drive tools, penetrating oil, long breaker bar with a pipe-extension. That way, you can re-tighten the nut when you re-assemble with lube on the threads and mating surface. Without lube, you cannot get the correct torque.
Trust me.
BTW, Matt: Things look pretty rusty like rotor, calipers etc.
The pistons in the calipers may be frozen; time for a brake job?
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD!
1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats.
Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".
