This was a nice thread that helped me troubleshoot my window. Thanks for everyone's contributions. So although old, I'll continue on with it to provide findings of my issue which will hopefully help someone with these pesky switch issues.
Issue #1: Passenger window would not roll up or down using either driver side or passenger side switch. I was getting power to the driver side, but not to the passenger side.
Root Cause #1: The driver side window switch that did not properly pass power through the switch to the passenger side switch. When in the neutral state, the switch acts as a power "pass-through" for the opposing side switch. I found that when toggling the switch, the side switching to the ground (1-4 or 2-x) would not properly seat itself back in the neutral position (1-3 or 2-5) and would remain open. If I jiggled the switch it'd settle back to normal and it'd have continuity for the power circuit. The switch seemed to be overcome by friction either in the plastic housing or on the spring-mounted contact posts that wouldn't allow it to return easily to neutral... or tolerances were just off.
Corrective Action #1: After I disassembled the switch, as much as I tried, I couldn't fix the switch for this issue. I tried adding solder to the tops of the terminals, or slightly bending the teeter-totter, but nothing worked. I simply moved it to the driver side window which doesn't require this "pass-through" feature.
Issue #2: Same is first really, but probably would only result in one direction not working (up/down) if all else worked. I found all root causes at the same time after removing the switch and dismantling.
Root Cause #2: The switch also did not properly ground the (X) post to the copper bridge to (4). These posts are mechanically locked, are not soldered, and are thus prone to intermittent opens. See picture.
Corrective Action #2: I added solder to the posts. Every post. I figured it'd happen to others eventually.
I've had repeated issues with these switches. Not the best design, in my opinion. In addition to soldering the posts, I'd probably solder a small spring to each power post to allow for a bit of play in the switch in the neutral position. Maybe next time.
